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September 24, 2008
September 8, 2008
How I home-built an electricity producing Wind turbine
New Page 1It was easy. You can do it too
Several years ago I bought some remote property in Arizona. I am an astronomer and wanted a place to practice my hobby far away from the sky-wrecking light pollution found near cities of any real size. I found a great piece of property. The problem is, it's so remote that there is no electric service available. That's not really a problem. No electricity equals no light pollution. However, it would be nice to have at least a little electricity, since so much of life in the 21st century is dependant on it.
One thing I noticed right away about my property is that most of the time, the wind is blowing. Almost from the moment I bought it, I had the idea of putting up a wind turbine and making some electricity, and later adding some solar panels. This is the story of how I did it. Not with an expensive, store-bought turbine, but with a home-built one that cost hardly anything. If you have some fabricating skills and some electronic know-how, you can build one too.
Let me state up front that I probably won't be able to help you out much if you decide to build your own wind turbine. This web site has become insanely popular, often taxing the bandwidth limits of the server. I get dozens of requests for help each day. I simply don't have time to answer the majority of them. Simple questions which only require a quick and simple answer may get replies if time permits. However, there is no way I can help you out with complex issues, teach you electronics theory, help you locate parts, build a charge controller for you, or custom design a system for you. There just aren't enough hours in the day. Sorry.
I started by Googling for information on home-built wind turbines. There are a lot of them out there in an amazing variety of designs and complexities. All of them had five things in common though:
A generator
Blades
A mounting that keeps it turned into the wind
A tower to get it up into the wind
Batteries and an electronic control system
I reduced the project to just five little systems. If attacked one at a time, the project didn't seem too terribly difficult. I decided to start with the generator. My online research showed that a lot of people were building their own generators. That seemed a bit too complicated, at least for a first effort. Others were using surplus permanent magnet DC motors as generators in their projects. This looked like a simpler way to go. So I began looking into what motors were best for the job.
A lot of people seemed to like to use old computer tape drive motors (surplus relics from the days when computers had big reel to reel tape drives). The best apparently are a couple of models of motor made by Ametek. The best motor made by Ametek is a 99 volt DC motor that works great as a generator. Unfortunately, they are almost impossible to locate these days. There are a lot of other Ametek motors around though. A couple of their other models make decent generators and can still be found on places like Ebay . This web site talks about the virtues and vices of various Ametek motors when used as generators.
http://www.tlgwindpower.com/ametek.htm
There are probably lots of other brands and models of permanent magnet DC motors available that will work well as generators. Permanent magnet DC motors work as generators, but they weren't designed to be generators. So they aren't great generators. Some types of motor are a lot worse than others. When used as generators, motors generally have to be driven far faster than their rated speed to produce anything near their rated voltage. So what you are looking for is a motor that is rated for high DC voltage, low rpms and high current. Steer away from low voltage and/or high rpm motors. You want a motor that will put out over 12 Volts at a fairly low rpm, and a useful level of current. So a motor rated for say 325 rpm at 30 Volts when used as a generator, could be expected to produce 12+ volts at some reasonably low rpm. On the other hand, a motor rated at 7200 rpm at 24 volts probably won't produce 12+ volts as a generator until it is spinning many thousands of rpm, which is way too fast for a wind turbine. So shop for motors accordingly.
I managed to score one of the good 30 volt Ametek motors off of Ebay for only $26. They don't go that cheap these days. People are catching on to the fact that they make great wind generators. Other brands will work, so don't fret about the price Ameteks are going for. Shop wisely. Anyway, The motor I got was in good shape and worked great. Even just giving the shaft a quick turn with my fingers would light a 12 volt bulb quite brightly. I gave it a real test by chucking it up in my drill press and connecting it to a dummy load. It works great as a generator, putting out easily a couple hundred Watts with this setup. I knew then that if I could make a decent set of blades to drive it, it would produce plenty of power.
So Blades and a hub to connect them to were the next order of business. More online research ensued. A lot of people made their own blades by carving them out of wood. That looked like an outrageous amount of work to me. I found that other people were making blades by cutting sections out of PVC pipe and shaping them into airfoils. That looked a lot more promising to me. This web site tells you how to make a set of blades for a small wind turbine using PVC pipe.
http://www.yourgreendream.com/diy_pvc_blades.php
I followed their general recipe. I did things a little differently though. I used black ABS pipe since my local homecenter store just happened to have pre-cut lengths of it. I used 6 inch pipe instead of 4 inch and 24 inches long instead of 19 5/8. I started by quartering a 24 inch long piece of pipe around its circumference and cutting it lengthwise into four pieces. Then I cut out one blade, and used it as a template for cutting out the others. That left me with 4 blades (3 plus one spare).
I then did a little extra smoothing and shaping using my belt sander and palm sander on the cut edges to try to make them into better airfoils. I don't know if it's really much of an improvement, but it didn't seem to hurt, and the blades look really good (if I do say so myself).
Now I needed a hub to bolt the blades to and attach to the motor. Rummaging around in my workshop, I found a toothed pulley that fit on the motor shaft, but was a little too small in diameter to bolt the blades onto. I also found a scrap disk of Aluminum 5 inches in diameter and ¼ inch thick that I could bolt the blades onto, but wouldn't attach to the motor shaft. The simple solution of course was to bolt these two pieces together to make the hub.
Much drilling, tapping and bolting later, I had a hub.
Here it is assembled and with the blades attached (after drilling mounting holes in them of course).
Here is another view of the hub with blades attached.
On a trip to the homecenter store for some PVC doo-dad or other for another project, I found these dome shaped vent caps.
I immediately thought of adding a spinner to the hub. Wow, with that on there, it really looks like a professionally made unit. I'd never be able to convince anyone I built it myself out of junk from my workshop and plumbing parts. They'd all look at me when I said I built it myself and go "Yeah, right." Then I found a web site that claimed such spinners disrupt the airflow and hurt the efficiency of the blades. I'm not sure I believe the reasoning behind the claim, but I left the spinner off, at least initially.
Next I needed a mounting for the turbine. Keeping it simple, I opted to just strap the motor to a piece of 2 X 4 wood. The correct length of the wood was computed by the highly scientific method of picking the best looking piece of scrap 2 X 4 off my scrap wood pile and going with however long it was. I also cut a piece of 4 inch diameter PVC pipe to make a shield to go over the motor and protect it from the weather. For a tail to keep it turned into the wind, I again just used a piece of heavy sheet Aluminum I happened to have laying around. I was worried that it wouldn't be a big enough tail, but it seems to work just fine. The turbine snaps right around into the wind every time it changes direction. For those of you always clamoring for me to provide plans, blueprints, schematics, etc., for my projects, I have added a few dimensions to the picture. I doubt any of these measurements is critical though.
Here is another view of the completed head of the unit with the motor and tail attached.
Next I had to begin thinking about some sort of tower and some sort of bearing that would allow the head to freely turn into the wind. I spent a lot of time in my local homecenter stores (Lowes and Home Depot) brainstorming. Finally, I came up with a solution that seems to work well. While brainstorming, I noticed that 1 inch diameter iron pipe is a good slip-fit inside 1 1/4 inch diameter steel EMT electrical conduit. I could use a long piece of 1 1/4 inch conduit as my tower and 1 inch pipe fittings at either end. For the head unit I attached a 1 inch iron floor flange centered 7 1/2 inches back from the generator end of the 2X4, and screwed a 10 inch long iron pipe nipple into it. The nipple would slip into the top of the piece of conduit I'd use as a tower and form a nice bearing. Wires from the generator would pass through a hole drilled in the 2X4 down the center of the pipe/conduit unit and exit at the base of the tower. Brilliant! (if I do say so myself)
For the tower base, I started by cutting a 2 foot diameter disk out of plywood. I made a U shaped assembly out of 1 inch pipe fittings. In the middle of that assembly I put a 1 1/4 inch Tee. The Tee is free to turn around the 1 inch pipe and forms a hinge that allows me to raise and lower the tower. I then added a close nipple, a 1 1/4 to 1 reducing fitting, and a 12 inch nipple. Later I added a 1 inch Tee between the reducer and the 12 inch nipple so there would be a place for the wires to exit the pipe. This is shown in a photo further down the page. I also later drilled holes in the wooden disk to allow me to use steel stakes to lock it in place on the ground.
This photo shows the head and base together. You can begin to see how it will go together. Imagine a 10 foot long piece of steel conduit connecting the two pieces. Since I was building this thing in Florida, but was going to use it in Arizona, I decided to hold off on purchasing the 10 foot piece of conduit until I got to Arizona. That meant the wind turbine would never be fully assembled and not get a proper test until I was ready to put it up in the field. That was a little scary because I wouldn't know if the thing actually worked until I tried it in Arizona.
Next, I painted all the wooden parts with a couple of coats of white latex paint I had leftover from another project. I wanted to protect the wood from the weather. This photo also shows the lead counterweight I added to the left side of the 2X4 under the tail to balance the head.
This photo shows the finished head unit with the blades attached. Is that a thing of beauty or what? It almost looks like I know what I'm doing.
I never got a chance to properly test the unit before heading to Arizona. One windy day though, I did take the head outside and hold it high up in the air above my head into the wind just to see if the blades would spin it as well as I had hoped. Spin it they did. In a matter of a few seconds it spun up to a truly scary speed (no load on the generator), and I found myself holding onto a giant, spinning, whirligig of death, with no idea how to put it down without getting myself chopped to bits. Fortunately, I did eventually manage to turn it out of the wind and slow it down to a non-lethal speed. I won't make that mistake again.
Now That I had all the mechanical parts sorted out, it was time to turn toward the electronic end of the project. A wind power system consists of the wind turbine, one or more batteries to store power produced by the turbine, a blocking diode to prevent power from the batteries being wasted spinning the motor/generator, a secondary load to dump power from the turbine into when the batteries are fully charged, and a charge controller to run everything.
There are lots of controllers for solar and wind power systems. Anyplace that sells alternative energy stuff will have them. There are also always lots of them for sale on Ebay . I decided to try building my own though. So it was back to Googling for information on wind turbine charge controllers. I found a lot of information, including some complete schematics, which was quite nice, and made building my own unit very easy. I based my unit on the schematic of the one found on this web site:
http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/9/20/0406/27488
That web site goes into a lot of detail about the controller, so I'm only going to talk about it in fairly general terms here. Again, while I followed their general recipe, I did do some things differently. Being an avid electronics tinkerer from an early age, I have a huge stock of electronic components already on hand, so I had to buy very little to complete the controller. I substituted different components for some parts and reworked the circuit a little just so I could use parts I already had on hand. That way I had to buy almost nothing to build the controller. The only part I had to buy was the relay.
Whether you build your own, or buy one, you will need some sort of controller for your wind turbine. The general principal behind the controller is that it monitors the voltage of the battery(s) in your system and either sends power from the turbine into the batteries to recharge them, or dumps the power from the turbine into a secondary load if the batteries are fully charged (to prevent over-charging and destroying the batteries). The schematic and write-up on the above web page does a good job of explaining it.
This is a picture of the controller I built. Click on it to see a larger picture. I just bolted everything to a piece of plywood for testing purposes. Eventually I will mount it in a weather-proof enclosure.
The little perf-board in the lower center with the ICs and other bits on it is the actual controller circuit. The silver bracket below it holds two buttons that allow me to manually toggle the unit between charging batteries and dumping power to a secondary load. The big, black heat sink on the lower left has two 40 Amp blocking diodes bolted into it. I am only using one right now, but I could easily add a second wind turbine or even a photovoltaic solar panel to the system using the second one. The double row of gold rectangles across the top is a dummy load made up of high-Wattage resistors. It has taps at 2 Ohm intervals. I use it as a secondary load to dump power from the turbine into when the battery is fully charged. I also use it for testing purposes to load test the turbine. Eventually excess power from the turbine will be dumped to something more useful like a water heater or a second battery bank. Below and to the left of the dummy load is the main fuse for the wind turbine. The small gray cube is a 40 Amp SPDT automotive relay (the only part I had to purchase) which sends the turbine power either to the batteries or to the dummy load. Along the right side is the terminal block which allows me to connect everything together.
In operation, the wind turbine is connected to the controller. Lines then run from the controller to the battery. All loads are taken directly from the battery. If the battery voltage drops below 11.9 volts, the controller switches the turbine power to charging the battery. If the battery voltage rises to 14 volts, the controller switches to dumping the turbine power into the dummy load. There are trimpots to adjust the voltage levels at which the controller toggles back and forth between the two states. I chose 11.9V for the discharge point and 14V for the fully charged point based on advice from lots of different web sites on the subject of properly charging lead acid batteries. The sites all recommended slightly different voltages. I sort of averaged them and came up with my numbers. When the battery voltage is between 11.9V and 14V, the system can be switched between either charging or dumping. A pair of push buttons allow me to switch between states anytime, for testing purposes. Normally the system runs automatically. When charging the battery, the yellow LED is lit. When the battery is charged and power is being dumped to the the dummy load, the green LED is lit. This gives me some minimal feedback on what is going on with the system. I also use my multimeter to measure both battery voltage, and turbine output voltage. I will probably eventually add either panel meters, or automotive-style voltage and charge/discharge meters to the system. I'll do that once I have it in some sort of enclosure.
I used my variable voltage bench power supply to simulate a battery in various states of charge and discharge to test and tune the controller. I could set the voltage of the power supply to 11.9V and set the trimpot for the low voltage trip point. Then I could crank the voltage up to 14V and set the trimpot for the high voltage trimpot. I had to get it set before I took it into the field because I'd have no way to tune it up out there.
Update: I am now using 14.8V for the full charge point after further researching the proper charging of lead-acid batteries. I have also switched to sealed lead-acid batteries because I got a bunch of them free from my brother. I am contemplating switching to deep-cycle batteries when the ones I have now begin to fail.
Update: I have found out the hard way that it is important with this controller design to connect the battery first, then connect the wind turbine and/or solar panels. If you connect the wind turbine first, the wild voltage swings coming from the turbine won't be smoothed out by the load of the battery, the controller will behave erratically, the relay will click away wildly, and voltage spikes could destroy the ICs. So always connect to the battery(s) first, then connect the wind turbine. Also, make sure you disconnect the wind turbine first when taking the system apart. Disconnect the battery(s) last.
Update: Finally, by very popular demand, I have a schematic of my charge controller. Click on it for the full size schematic. It only varies a little bit from the one at the above link. I substituted a few parts I had on hand for ones in the original design. That way I only had to buy a few things to build the controller. You could do the same. It is not critical to exactly duplicate this design. I used a different op-amp chip and a different MOSFET than the original design. Most of the resistor values are not critical. If you have the knowledge to do so, feel free to substitute. Also, feel free to experiment. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who feels they have improved on the design in any way.
At last, all parts of the project were complete. It was all done only a week before my vacation arrived. That was cutting it close. I disassembled the turbine and carefully packed the parts and the tools I'd need to assemble it for their trip across the country. Then I once again I drove out to my remote property in Arizona for a week of off-grid relaxation, but this time with hopes of having some actual electricity on the site.
The first order of business was setting up and bracing the tower. After arriving at my property and unloading my van, I drove to the nearest Home Depot (about 60 miles one way) and bought the 10 foot long piece of 1 1/4 inch conduit I needed for the tower. Once I had it, assembly went quickly. I used nylon rope to anchor the pole to four big wooden stakes driven in the ground. Turnbuckles on the lower ends of each guy-line allowed my to plumb up the tower. By releasing the line from either stake in line with the hinge at the base, I could raise and lower the tower easily. Eventually the nylon line and wooden stakes will be replaced with steel stakes and steel cables. For testing though, this arrangement worked fine.
This photo shows a closeup of how the guy-lines attach near the top of the tower. I used chain-link fence brackets as tie points for my guy-lines. The fence brackets don't quite clamp down tightly on the conduit which is smaller in diameter than the fence posts they are normally used with. So there is a steel hose clamp at either end of the stack of brackets to keep them in place.
This photo shows the base of the tower, staked to the ground, and with the wire from the wind turbine exiting from the Tee below the conduit tower. I used an old orange extension cord with a broken plug to connect between the turbine and the controller. I simply cut both ends off and put on spade lugs. Threading the wire through the tower turned out to be easy. It was a cold morning and the cord was very stiff. I was able to just push it through the length of the conduit tower. on a warmer day I probably would have had to use a fishtape or string line to pull the cord through the conduit. I got lucky.
This photo shows the turbine head installed on top of the tower. I greased up the pipe on the bottom of the head and slid it into the top of the conduit. It made a great bearing, just as I'd planned. Sometimes I even amaze myself.
Too bad there was nobody around to get an Iwo Jima Flag Raising type picture of me raising the tower up with the head installed.
Now I'm just waiting for the wind to blow. Wouldn't you know it, it was dead calm that morning. It was the first calm day I had ever seen out there. The wind had always been blowing every other time I had been there. Well, nothing to do but wait.
Finally! The wind was up and the turbine was spinning. The winds were actually unusually light the whole time I was on my property this time. The wind turbine still made good amounts of power though, even with winds that at best made it to only a little over 20 mph at times.
This photo shows the controller, battery and associated electronics all wired up. I have a 120V inverter connected to the battery and a multimeter to keep track of the battery voltage and wind turbine output voltage. Also my electric shaver and battery charger are plugged into the inverter and running off of 120V AC. Later I plugged a long extension cord into the inverter and stretched it back to my camp site. I know this setup is really messy, but I was in a hurry to get up and running to take advantage of the wind once it started blowing. That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it.
This photo is a closeup of the electronics. The meter shows that the wind turbine is producing 13.32 Volts. My electric shaver and battery charger are providing loads on the system through the AC inverter.
Here the meter shows the turbine producing 13.49 volts. The voltage from the turbine goes up only a little as the wind speed increases once it has a load to power. Once the wind starts blowing, the turbine head snaps around into it and begins spinning up. It spins up quickly until the output voltage exceeds the battery voltage plus the blocking diode drop (around 13.2 volts, depending on the state of the battery charge). it is really running without a load until that point. Once the that voltage is exceeded, the turbine suddenly has a load as it begins dumping power into the battery. Once under load, the rpms only slightly increase as the wind speed increases. More wind means more current into the battery which means more load on the generator. So the system is pretty much self-governing. I saw no signs of over-reving. Of course in storm-force winds, all bets are off. Switching the controller to dump power into the dummy load did a good job of braking the turbine and slowing it way down even in stronger gusts. Actually shorting the turbine output is an even better brake. It brings the turbine to a halt right now, even in strong winds. Shorting the output is how I made the turbine safe to raise and lower, so I wouldn't get sliced and diced by the spinning blades. Warning though, the whole head assembly can still swing around and crack you hard on the noggin if the wind changes direction while you are working on these things. So be careful out there.
Eventually I decided my setup was too messy and dangerous. Having high current electrical connections and a rat's nest of wires on an Aluminum table wasn't smart. The danger of a spectacular short circuit was too high, so I neatened things up. I set all the electronics on a piece of plywood on top of a plastic storage bin and neatened up the wiring. Then I ran a long extension cord from the inverter back to my camp site and plugged all my stuff into it there.
Here is a longer view of the complete setup.
How sweet it is! I have electricity! Here I have my laptop computer set up and plugged into the power provided by the inverter, which in turn is powered by the wind turbine. I normally only have about two hours of battery life on my laptop. So I don't get to use it much while I'm camping. It comes in handy though for downloading photos out of my camera when its memory card gets full, making notes on projects like this one, working on the next great American novel, or just watching DVD movies. Now I have no battery life problems, at least as long as the wind blows. Besides the laptop, I can also now recharge all my other battery powered equipment like my cell phone, my camera, my electric shaver, my air mattress pump, etc. Life used to get real primitive on previous camping trips when the batteries in all my electronic stuff ran down.
So how much did all this cost to build? Well, I saved all the receipts for everything I bought related to this project.
Part
Origin
Cost
Motor/Generator
Ebay
$26.00
Misc. pipe fittings
Homecenter Store
$41.49
Pipe for blades
Homecenter Store
$12.84
Misc hardware
Homecenter Store
$8.00
Conduit
Homecenter Store
$19.95
Wood & Aluminum
Scrap Pile
$0.00
Power Cable
Old extension cord
$0.00
Rope & Turnbuckles
Homecenter Store
$18.47
Electronic Parts
Already on hand
$0.00
Relay
Auto Parts Store
$13.87
Battery
Borrowed from my UPS
$0.00
Inverter
Already on hand
$0.00
Paint
Already on hand
$0.00
Total
$140.62
Not too bad. I doubt I could buy a commercially made turbine with a comparable power output, plus a commercially made charge controller, plus a commercially made tower for less than $750-$1000.
Future modifications and enhancements I would like to make to the system include:
Mount the electronics in a weather-proof enclosure.
Add meters to monitor battery voltage and charge/discharge current.
Add a tachometer so I know how fast it is spinning.
Add more batteries to increase reserve storage capacity.
Add a second wind turbine or solar panels to increase power production.
Get a higher Wattage inverter.
Some method to automatically furl or brake the unit in high winds.
A concrete foundation for the tower.
A taller tower with steel stakes and steel guy wires.
Most of these modifications won't be made until I am living on the site permanently, or semi-permanently. One modification I am going to work on completing in the next few months before my next trip out there is the weather-proof enclosure and probably adding the meters.
As the project evolves in the future, I'll post updates here.
UPDATE 03/19/07
This web site has become very popular. Thank you all for your interest and encouragement. I am getting tons of email questions from people about all sorts wind power related (and not so related) issues. Many are the same few questions asked over and over again. Unfortunately I simply don't have the time to answer them all. I do try to read them all, but my busy schedule simply doesn't allow enough time to respond to most of them. So don't take it personally if you don't get a response. I'll instead post responses to the most commonly asked questions here as time allows.
Question #1: How do you prevent the power cable coming down the inside of the tower from winding up over time?
Answer: This is by far the most asked question I get from people. The short answer is I don't do anything to prevent it. The cable really doesn't wind up all that badly. The wind is as liable to spin the turbine head around one way as it is the other. So there is no real tendency for the cable to wind up badly. If it does wind up over time, it is no big deal to simply disconnect the wires at the bottom and manually unwind it. I have an idea for a fairly easy to build slip-ring system that would prevent any possibility of winding up the cable. At present though, there is little need to actually try implementing it. Maybe I'll try it out on a future turbine.
Question #2: Can you help me design/build a wind power system that will power my whole home/farm so I can get out from under the thumb of my evil electric utility company?
Answer: The short answer is no. Not just due to time constraints, but also because my system isn't designed to produce enough electricity to power an entire home or farm. My system was just designed to provide a couple of hundred Watts tops in an area where no other electric options were available. I am working on design and construction of other wind turbines and even solar panels to increase my power production beyond the current minimal level. However, even if successful, these new additions would still not power a typical home or farm. My ultimate goal is to have enough power from wind and solar sources to power a small cabin and observatory on my remote property that will only be occupied occasionally and won't have much need for electricity. If you need a bigger system, then you need someone with experience with bigger systems to help you out.
Question #3: What are you working on now?
Answer: As time permits I am reworking the charge controller. It is going to be mounted in a weather-proof case with automotive-style voltage and amp meters installed on it. I have all the parts I need, but time to work on it is lacking. I am also working on a new design for the turbine head that will automatically turn out of the wind if it gets too strong so as to prevent over-speed damage. I have also started work on building a solar panel out of cheaply acquired solar cell seconds (from Ebay ) and commonly available construction materials. Once there is any progress on that project, I'll post it to the web site, but probably in its own section, rather than here on the wind turbine page.
UPDATE 05/17/07
Here is a photo of me setting up the wind turbine on my remote property during our May 2007 trip to Arizona. I had left most of the equipment on-site in Arizona. I only brought the turbine head and charge controller back home with me. Everything weathered the winter ok. Just some slight surface rust on parts of the tower base. Everything went back together quickly and worked great.
I used the wind turbine to power my new popup trailer on my spring vacation. The strong spring winds kept the wind turbine spinning all day every day and most of the nights too while I was in Arizona. The turbine provided enough power for the interior 12V lighting and enough 120V AC at the power outlets to keep my battery charger, electric shaver, and mini vacuum cleaner (camping is messy) all charged up and running. My girlfriend complained about it not having enough power to run her blow-dryer though.
Here my volt meter is showing the turbine producing 14.5 volts in a stiff wind. Although the wind turbine powered the popup fairly well, I think there is room for improvement. I was powering the popup with 120 Volts AC via my inverter. The popup has its own 120V AC to 12V DC power supply for powering the interior lighting and other 12V accessories. The losses involved in converting power to 120V AC and then back to 12V DC probably heavily contributed to the battery running down fairly quickly a couple of times during periods of light wind. Powering the 12V systems directly from the battery would probably work better. The only downside I see is that the DC voltage won't be regulated and could swing a couple of volts up or down with changes in wind speed. That wouldn't bother most kinds of lighting too much. Other devices could have a problem with it though.
This photo shows the turbine spinning away and cranking out the power. I haven't had the time to complete the rebuild of the charge controller in a weather-proof enclosure. So this time I just put all the electronics in a plastic bin to protect them from the elements. Good thing too, since it rained several times while we were there this time. The jug of lamp oil is on top of the bin to prevent the wind from ripping the lid off.
UPDATE 01/3/08
I have completed my first home-built solar panel. It will be used in addition to the wind turbine to produce more power on my remote Arizona land.
UPDATE 05/20/08
I have completed the rebuild of the charge controller. It is now in a semi-weatherproof enclosure and I have added a built in voltage meter. I have also added a few new features. The unit now has provisions for power inputs from multiple sources. It also has built-in fused 12V power distribution for three external loads.
This photo shows the inputs to the charge controller. It has provisions for 3 inputs. One for my wind turbine and two for solar panels, though I only have one solar panel complete at this time.
This photo shows the outputs from the charge controller. There are connections to the battery bank(s), dummy load, and three fused external 12V loads.
This photo shows the inside of the charge controller. I basically just transferred everything that I originally had bolted onto the plywood board in the prototype into this box. I added an automotive illuminated voltage gage and fuses for 3 external 12V loads. I used heavy gage wire to try to reduce losses due to wire resistance. Every watt counts when you are living off-grid.
This is the schematic for the new charge controller. It is pretty much the same as the old one above, except for the addition of the Volt meter and extra fuse blocks for the external loads. Click on it for a larger version.
This is a block diagram of the whole power system. click on it for a larger version. Note that I only have one solar panel built right now. I just haven't had the time to complete the second one. Please visit my home-built solar panel page.
UPDATE 07/18/08
Once again I stayed on my remote property during my recent vacation in Arizona. This time I had both my home-built wind turbine and my home-built solar panel with me. Working together, they provided plenty of power for my (admittedly minimal) electricity needs.
Here is a close-up of the solar panel. A write-up on how I built it can be found here. I have to move it several times each day to keep it pointed at the sun, but that isn't really a big hardship. Maybe someday I will build a tracking system to automatically keep it aimed at the sun.
Here is a photo of the new charge controller unit. The wires on the left side are coming from the wind turbine and solar panel. The wires on the right side are going to the battery bank and dummy load. I cut up an old heavy-duty 100 ft. extension cord to make cables to connect wind turbine and solar panel to the charge controller. The cable to the wind turbine is about 75 feet long and the cable to the solar panel is about 25 feet long. The battery bank I am currently using consists of 11 sealed lead-acid 12V batteries of 8 Amp-Hour capacity connected in parallel. That gives me 88 Amp-Hours of storage capacity, which is plenty for camping. As long as it is sunny and windy, (nearly every day is sunny and windy on my property), the wind turbine and solar panel keep the batteries well charged.
Disaster! I went into town to pick up some supplies. While I was gone, a wind storm came up. Winds well in excess of 50 MPH blew through my area. When I returned I found the turbine in this condition. Two blades had snapped off, and the third was cracked, but still attached. The blades broke where the mounting tab met the body of the blade. I knew this was a weak spot and always expected they would break there eventually. I don't know for sure if it was over-speed, or just fatigue from repeated flexing that caused them to break. I suspect fatigue though. I could see the blades flexing in strong winds before they broke. Interestingly though, I found that the battery bank was fully charged. The wind turbine must have generated some serious power in those high winds before it failed.
I knew I could get the wind turbine up and running again if I could just drill new mounting holes in the blades. I had no drill or drill bits with me though. I had to think about it for a while before I figured out how to do it. Then, the spirit of MacGyver came over me, and I knew just how to do it.
I figured out that if I heated my largest Phillips screwdriver over a fire, it would melt a hole in the PVC blades just the right size for the mounting bolts. So I got some charcoal going and started making holes. It's a terrible abuse of a perfectly good screwdriver, but it was an emergency situation after all.
I used one of the broken mounting tabs as a template to locate where to make the holes in the bases of the blades. Then it was straightforward to just melt through the blades with the screwdriver. It was very quick and easy, and the holes were very clean.
I then re-mounted the blades on the hub of the turbine. I used the broken mounting tabs as spacers under the blades to prevent them from fouling the heads of the bolts that hold the hub together. The tabless blades are much stronger and less likely to flex in strong winds. I should have done it this way in the beginning. Live and learn.
Here is the turbine all re-assembled and ready to go back up on the tower.
Here is the wind turbine up and flying again. The loss of two inches of blade length doesn't seem to have adversely impacted the performance of the turbine. It still works great. Not bad for an improvised repair job.
Several years ago I bought some remote property in Arizona. I am an astronomer and wanted a place to practice my hobby far away from the sky-wrecking light pollution found near cities of any real size. I found a great piece of property. The problem is, it's so remote that there is no electric service available. That's not really a problem. No electricity equals no light pollution. However, it would be nice to have at least a little electricity, since so much of life in the 21st century is dependant on it.
One thing I noticed right away about my property is that most of the time, the wind is blowing. Almost from the moment I bought it, I had the idea of putting up a wind turbine and making some electricity, and later adding some solar panels. This is the story of how I did it. Not with an expensive, store-bought turbine, but with a home-built one that cost hardly anything. If you have some fabricating skills and some electronic know-how, you can build one too.
Let me state up front that I probably won't be able to help you out much if you decide to build your own wind turbine. This web site has become insanely popular, often taxing the bandwidth limits of the server. I get dozens of requests for help each day. I simply don't have time to answer the majority of them. Simple questions which only require a quick and simple answer may get replies if time permits. However, there is no way I can help you out with complex issues, teach you electronics theory, help you locate parts, build a charge controller for you, or custom design a system for you. There just aren't enough hours in the day. Sorry.
I started by Googling for information on home-built wind turbines. There are a lot of them out there in an amazing variety of designs and complexities. All of them had five things in common though:
A generator
Blades
A mounting that keeps it turned into the wind
A tower to get it up into the wind
Batteries and an electronic control system
I reduced the project to just five little systems. If attacked one at a time, the project didn't seem too terribly difficult. I decided to start with the generator. My online research showed that a lot of people were building their own generators. That seemed a bit too complicated, at least for a first effort. Others were using surplus permanent magnet DC motors as generators in their projects. This looked like a simpler way to go. So I began looking into what motors were best for the job.
A lot of people seemed to like to use old computer tape drive motors (surplus relics from the days when computers had big reel to reel tape drives). The best apparently are a couple of models of motor made by Ametek. The best motor made by Ametek is a 99 volt DC motor that works great as a generator. Unfortunately, they are almost impossible to locate these days. There are a lot of other Ametek motors around though. A couple of their other models make decent generators and can still be found on places like Ebay . This web site talks about the virtues and vices of various Ametek motors when used as generators.
http://www.tlgwindpower.com/ametek.htm
There are probably lots of other brands and models of permanent magnet DC motors available that will work well as generators. Permanent magnet DC motors work as generators, but they weren't designed to be generators. So they aren't great generators. Some types of motor are a lot worse than others. When used as generators, motors generally have to be driven far faster than their rated speed to produce anything near their rated voltage. So what you are looking for is a motor that is rated for high DC voltage, low rpms and high current. Steer away from low voltage and/or high rpm motors. You want a motor that will put out over 12 Volts at a fairly low rpm, and a useful level of current. So a motor rated for say 325 rpm at 30 Volts when used as a generator, could be expected to produce 12+ volts at some reasonably low rpm. On the other hand, a motor rated at 7200 rpm at 24 volts probably won't produce 12+ volts as a generator until it is spinning many thousands of rpm, which is way too fast for a wind turbine. So shop for motors accordingly.
I managed to score one of the good 30 volt Ametek motors off of Ebay for only $26. They don't go that cheap these days. People are catching on to the fact that they make great wind generators. Other brands will work, so don't fret about the price Ameteks are going for. Shop wisely. Anyway, The motor I got was in good shape and worked great. Even just giving the shaft a quick turn with my fingers would light a 12 volt bulb quite brightly. I gave it a real test by chucking it up in my drill press and connecting it to a dummy load. It works great as a generator, putting out easily a couple hundred Watts with this setup. I knew then that if I could make a decent set of blades to drive it, it would produce plenty of power.
So Blades and a hub to connect them to were the next order of business. More online research ensued. A lot of people made their own blades by carving them out of wood. That looked like an outrageous amount of work to me. I found that other people were making blades by cutting sections out of PVC pipe and shaping them into airfoils. That looked a lot more promising to me. This web site tells you how to make a set of blades for a small wind turbine using PVC pipe.
http://www.yourgreendream.com/diy_pvc_blades.php
I followed their general recipe. I did things a little differently though. I used black ABS pipe since my local homecenter store just happened to have pre-cut lengths of it. I used 6 inch pipe instead of 4 inch and 24 inches long instead of 19 5/8. I started by quartering a 24 inch long piece of pipe around its circumference and cutting it lengthwise into four pieces. Then I cut out one blade, and used it as a template for cutting out the others. That left me with 4 blades (3 plus one spare).
I then did a little extra smoothing and shaping using my belt sander and palm sander on the cut edges to try to make them into better airfoils. I don't know if it's really much of an improvement, but it didn't seem to hurt, and the blades look really good (if I do say so myself).
Now I needed a hub to bolt the blades to and attach to the motor. Rummaging around in my workshop, I found a toothed pulley that fit on the motor shaft, but was a little too small in diameter to bolt the blades onto. I also found a scrap disk of Aluminum 5 inches in diameter and ¼ inch thick that I could bolt the blades onto, but wouldn't attach to the motor shaft. The simple solution of course was to bolt these two pieces together to make the hub.
Much drilling, tapping and bolting later, I had a hub.
Here it is assembled and with the blades attached (after drilling mounting holes in them of course).
Here is another view of the hub with blades attached.
On a trip to the homecenter store for some PVC doo-dad or other for another project, I found these dome shaped vent caps.
I immediately thought of adding a spinner to the hub. Wow, with that on there, it really looks like a professionally made unit. I'd never be able to convince anyone I built it myself out of junk from my workshop and plumbing parts. They'd all look at me when I said I built it myself and go "Yeah, right." Then I found a web site that claimed such spinners disrupt the airflow and hurt the efficiency of the blades. I'm not sure I believe the reasoning behind the claim, but I left the spinner off, at least initially.
Next I needed a mounting for the turbine. Keeping it simple, I opted to just strap the motor to a piece of 2 X 4 wood. The correct length of the wood was computed by the highly scientific method of picking the best looking piece of scrap 2 X 4 off my scrap wood pile and going with however long it was. I also cut a piece of 4 inch diameter PVC pipe to make a shield to go over the motor and protect it from the weather. For a tail to keep it turned into the wind, I again just used a piece of heavy sheet Aluminum I happened to have laying around. I was worried that it wouldn't be a big enough tail, but it seems to work just fine. The turbine snaps right around into the wind every time it changes direction. For those of you always clamoring for me to provide plans, blueprints, schematics, etc., for my projects, I have added a few dimensions to the picture. I doubt any of these measurements is critical though.
Here is another view of the completed head of the unit with the motor and tail attached.
Next I had to begin thinking about some sort of tower and some sort of bearing that would allow the head to freely turn into the wind. I spent a lot of time in my local homecenter stores (Lowes and Home Depot) brainstorming. Finally, I came up with a solution that seems to work well. While brainstorming, I noticed that 1 inch diameter iron pipe is a good slip-fit inside 1 1/4 inch diameter steel EMT electrical conduit. I could use a long piece of 1 1/4 inch conduit as my tower and 1 inch pipe fittings at either end. For the head unit I attached a 1 inch iron floor flange centered 7 1/2 inches back from the generator end of the 2X4, and screwed a 10 inch long iron pipe nipple into it. The nipple would slip into the top of the piece of conduit I'd use as a tower and form a nice bearing. Wires from the generator would pass through a hole drilled in the 2X4 down the center of the pipe/conduit unit and exit at the base of the tower. Brilliant! (if I do say so myself)
For the tower base, I started by cutting a 2 foot diameter disk out of plywood. I made a U shaped assembly out of 1 inch pipe fittings. In the middle of that assembly I put a 1 1/4 inch Tee. The Tee is free to turn around the 1 inch pipe and forms a hinge that allows me to raise and lower the tower. I then added a close nipple, a 1 1/4 to 1 reducing fitting, and a 12 inch nipple. Later I added a 1 inch Tee between the reducer and the 12 inch nipple so there would be a place for the wires to exit the pipe. This is shown in a photo further down the page. I also later drilled holes in the wooden disk to allow me to use steel stakes to lock it in place on the ground.
This photo shows the head and base together. You can begin to see how it will go together. Imagine a 10 foot long piece of steel conduit connecting the two pieces. Since I was building this thing in Florida, but was going to use it in Arizona, I decided to hold off on purchasing the 10 foot piece of conduit until I got to Arizona. That meant the wind turbine would never be fully assembled and not get a proper test until I was ready to put it up in the field. That was a little scary because I wouldn't know if the thing actually worked until I tried it in Arizona.
Next, I painted all the wooden parts with a couple of coats of white latex paint I had leftover from another project. I wanted to protect the wood from the weather. This photo also shows the lead counterweight I added to the left side of the 2X4 under the tail to balance the head.
This photo shows the finished head unit with the blades attached. Is that a thing of beauty or what? It almost looks like I know what I'm doing.
I never got a chance to properly test the unit before heading to Arizona. One windy day though, I did take the head outside and hold it high up in the air above my head into the wind just to see if the blades would spin it as well as I had hoped. Spin it they did. In a matter of a few seconds it spun up to a truly scary speed (no load on the generator), and I found myself holding onto a giant, spinning, whirligig of death, with no idea how to put it down without getting myself chopped to bits. Fortunately, I did eventually manage to turn it out of the wind and slow it down to a non-lethal speed. I won't make that mistake again.
Now That I had all the mechanical parts sorted out, it was time to turn toward the electronic end of the project. A wind power system consists of the wind turbine, one or more batteries to store power produced by the turbine, a blocking diode to prevent power from the batteries being wasted spinning the motor/generator, a secondary load to dump power from the turbine into when the batteries are fully charged, and a charge controller to run everything.
There are lots of controllers for solar and wind power systems. Anyplace that sells alternative energy stuff will have them. There are also always lots of them for sale on Ebay . I decided to try building my own though. So it was back to Googling for information on wind turbine charge controllers. I found a lot of information, including some complete schematics, which was quite nice, and made building my own unit very easy. I based my unit on the schematic of the one found on this web site:
http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/9/20/0406/27488
That web site goes into a lot of detail about the controller, so I'm only going to talk about it in fairly general terms here. Again, while I followed their general recipe, I did do some things differently. Being an avid electronics tinkerer from an early age, I have a huge stock of electronic components already on hand, so I had to buy very little to complete the controller. I substituted different components for some parts and reworked the circuit a little just so I could use parts I already had on hand. That way I had to buy almost nothing to build the controller. The only part I had to buy was the relay.
Whether you build your own, or buy one, you will need some sort of controller for your wind turbine. The general principal behind the controller is that it monitors the voltage of the battery(s) in your system and either sends power from the turbine into the batteries to recharge them, or dumps the power from the turbine into a secondary load if the batteries are fully charged (to prevent over-charging and destroying the batteries). The schematic and write-up on the above web page does a good job of explaining it.
This is a picture of the controller I built. Click on it to see a larger picture. I just bolted everything to a piece of plywood for testing purposes. Eventually I will mount it in a weather-proof enclosure.
The little perf-board in the lower center with the ICs and other bits on it is the actual controller circuit. The silver bracket below it holds two buttons that allow me to manually toggle the unit between charging batteries and dumping power to a secondary load. The big, black heat sink on the lower left has two 40 Amp blocking diodes bolted into it. I am only using one right now, but I could easily add a second wind turbine or even a photovoltaic solar panel to the system using the second one. The double row of gold rectangles across the top is a dummy load made up of high-Wattage resistors. It has taps at 2 Ohm intervals. I use it as a secondary load to dump power from the turbine into when the battery is fully charged. I also use it for testing purposes to load test the turbine. Eventually excess power from the turbine will be dumped to something more useful like a water heater or a second battery bank. Below and to the left of the dummy load is the main fuse for the wind turbine. The small gray cube is a 40 Amp SPDT automotive relay (the only part I had to purchase) which sends the turbine power either to the batteries or to the dummy load. Along the right side is the terminal block which allows me to connect everything together.
In operation, the wind turbine is connected to the controller. Lines then run from the controller to the battery. All loads are taken directly from the battery. If the battery voltage drops below 11.9 volts, the controller switches the turbine power to charging the battery. If the battery voltage rises to 14 volts, the controller switches to dumping the turbine power into the dummy load. There are trimpots to adjust the voltage levels at which the controller toggles back and forth between the two states. I chose 11.9V for the discharge point and 14V for the fully charged point based on advice from lots of different web sites on the subject of properly charging lead acid batteries. The sites all recommended slightly different voltages. I sort of averaged them and came up with my numbers. When the battery voltage is between 11.9V and 14V, the system can be switched between either charging or dumping. A pair of push buttons allow me to switch between states anytime, for testing purposes. Normally the system runs automatically. When charging the battery, the yellow LED is lit. When the battery is charged and power is being dumped to the the dummy load, the green LED is lit. This gives me some minimal feedback on what is going on with the system. I also use my multimeter to measure both battery voltage, and turbine output voltage. I will probably eventually add either panel meters, or automotive-style voltage and charge/discharge meters to the system. I'll do that once I have it in some sort of enclosure.
I used my variable voltage bench power supply to simulate a battery in various states of charge and discharge to test and tune the controller. I could set the voltage of the power supply to 11.9V and set the trimpot for the low voltage trip point. Then I could crank the voltage up to 14V and set the trimpot for the high voltage trimpot. I had to get it set before I took it into the field because I'd have no way to tune it up out there.
Update: I am now using 14.8V for the full charge point after further researching the proper charging of lead-acid batteries. I have also switched to sealed lead-acid batteries because I got a bunch of them free from my brother. I am contemplating switching to deep-cycle batteries when the ones I have now begin to fail.
Update: I have found out the hard way that it is important with this controller design to connect the battery first, then connect the wind turbine and/or solar panels. If you connect the wind turbine first, the wild voltage swings coming from the turbine won't be smoothed out by the load of the battery, the controller will behave erratically, the relay will click away wildly, and voltage spikes could destroy the ICs. So always connect to the battery(s) first, then connect the wind turbine. Also, make sure you disconnect the wind turbine first when taking the system apart. Disconnect the battery(s) last.
Update: Finally, by very popular demand, I have a schematic of my charge controller. Click on it for the full size schematic. It only varies a little bit from the one at the above link. I substituted a few parts I had on hand for ones in the original design. That way I only had to buy a few things to build the controller. You could do the same. It is not critical to exactly duplicate this design. I used a different op-amp chip and a different MOSFET than the original design. Most of the resistor values are not critical. If you have the knowledge to do so, feel free to substitute. Also, feel free to experiment. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who feels they have improved on the design in any way.
At last, all parts of the project were complete. It was all done only a week before my vacation arrived. That was cutting it close. I disassembled the turbine and carefully packed the parts and the tools I'd need to assemble it for their trip across the country. Then I once again I drove out to my remote property in Arizona for a week of off-grid relaxation, but this time with hopes of having some actual electricity on the site.
The first order of business was setting up and bracing the tower. After arriving at my property and unloading my van, I drove to the nearest Home Depot (about 60 miles one way) and bought the 10 foot long piece of 1 1/4 inch conduit I needed for the tower. Once I had it, assembly went quickly. I used nylon rope to anchor the pole to four big wooden stakes driven in the ground. Turnbuckles on the lower ends of each guy-line allowed my to plumb up the tower. By releasing the line from either stake in line with the hinge at the base, I could raise and lower the tower easily. Eventually the nylon line and wooden stakes will be replaced with steel stakes and steel cables. For testing though, this arrangement worked fine.
This photo shows a closeup of how the guy-lines attach near the top of the tower. I used chain-link fence brackets as tie points for my guy-lines. The fence brackets don't quite clamp down tightly on the conduit which is smaller in diameter than the fence posts they are normally used with. So there is a steel hose clamp at either end of the stack of brackets to keep them in place.
This photo shows the base of the tower, staked to the ground, and with the wire from the wind turbine exiting from the Tee below the conduit tower. I used an old orange extension cord with a broken plug to connect between the turbine and the controller. I simply cut both ends off and put on spade lugs. Threading the wire through the tower turned out to be easy. It was a cold morning and the cord was very stiff. I was able to just push it through the length of the conduit tower. on a warmer day I probably would have had to use a fishtape or string line to pull the cord through the conduit. I got lucky.
This photo shows the turbine head installed on top of the tower. I greased up the pipe on the bottom of the head and slid it into the top of the conduit. It made a great bearing, just as I'd planned. Sometimes I even amaze myself.
Too bad there was nobody around to get an Iwo Jima Flag Raising type picture of me raising the tower up with the head installed.
Now I'm just waiting for the wind to blow. Wouldn't you know it, it was dead calm that morning. It was the first calm day I had ever seen out there. The wind had always been blowing every other time I had been there. Well, nothing to do but wait.
Finally! The wind was up and the turbine was spinning. The winds were actually unusually light the whole time I was on my property this time. The wind turbine still made good amounts of power though, even with winds that at best made it to only a little over 20 mph at times.
This photo shows the controller, battery and associated electronics all wired up. I have a 120V inverter connected to the battery and a multimeter to keep track of the battery voltage and wind turbine output voltage. Also my electric shaver and battery charger are plugged into the inverter and running off of 120V AC. Later I plugged a long extension cord into the inverter and stretched it back to my camp site. I know this setup is really messy, but I was in a hurry to get up and running to take advantage of the wind once it started blowing. That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it.
This photo is a closeup of the electronics. The meter shows that the wind turbine is producing 13.32 Volts. My electric shaver and battery charger are providing loads on the system through the AC inverter.
Here the meter shows the turbine producing 13.49 volts. The voltage from the turbine goes up only a little as the wind speed increases once it has a load to power. Once the wind starts blowing, the turbine head snaps around into it and begins spinning up. It spins up quickly until the output voltage exceeds the battery voltage plus the blocking diode drop (around 13.2 volts, depending on the state of the battery charge). it is really running without a load until that point. Once the that voltage is exceeded, the turbine suddenly has a load as it begins dumping power into the battery. Once under load, the rpms only slightly increase as the wind speed increases. More wind means more current into the battery which means more load on the generator. So the system is pretty much self-governing. I saw no signs of over-reving. Of course in storm-force winds, all bets are off. Switching the controller to dump power into the dummy load did a good job of braking the turbine and slowing it way down even in stronger gusts. Actually shorting the turbine output is an even better brake. It brings the turbine to a halt right now, even in strong winds. Shorting the output is how I made the turbine safe to raise and lower, so I wouldn't get sliced and diced by the spinning blades. Warning though, the whole head assembly can still swing around and crack you hard on the noggin if the wind changes direction while you are working on these things. So be careful out there.
Eventually I decided my setup was too messy and dangerous. Having high current electrical connections and a rat's nest of wires on an Aluminum table wasn't smart. The danger of a spectacular short circuit was too high, so I neatened things up. I set all the electronics on a piece of plywood on top of a plastic storage bin and neatened up the wiring. Then I ran a long extension cord from the inverter back to my camp site and plugged all my stuff into it there.
Here is a longer view of the complete setup.
How sweet it is! I have electricity! Here I have my laptop computer set up and plugged into the power provided by the inverter, which in turn is powered by the wind turbine. I normally only have about two hours of battery life on my laptop. So I don't get to use it much while I'm camping. It comes in handy though for downloading photos out of my camera when its memory card gets full, making notes on projects like this one, working on the next great American novel, or just watching DVD movies. Now I have no battery life problems, at least as long as the wind blows. Besides the laptop, I can also now recharge all my other battery powered equipment like my cell phone, my camera, my electric shaver, my air mattress pump, etc. Life used to get real primitive on previous camping trips when the batteries in all my electronic stuff ran down.
So how much did all this cost to build? Well, I saved all the receipts for everything I bought related to this project.
Part
Origin
Cost
Motor/Generator
Ebay
$26.00
Misc. pipe fittings
Homecenter Store
$41.49
Pipe for blades
Homecenter Store
$12.84
Misc hardware
Homecenter Store
$8.00
Conduit
Homecenter Store
$19.95
Wood & Aluminum
Scrap Pile
$0.00
Power Cable
Old extension cord
$0.00
Rope & Turnbuckles
Homecenter Store
$18.47
Electronic Parts
Already on hand
$0.00
Relay
Auto Parts Store
$13.87
Battery
Borrowed from my UPS
$0.00
Inverter
Already on hand
$0.00
Paint
Already on hand
$0.00
Total
$140.62
Not too bad. I doubt I could buy a commercially made turbine with a comparable power output, plus a commercially made charge controller, plus a commercially made tower for less than $750-$1000.
Future modifications and enhancements I would like to make to the system include:
Mount the electronics in a weather-proof enclosure.
Add meters to monitor battery voltage and charge/discharge current.
Add a tachometer so I know how fast it is spinning.
Add more batteries to increase reserve storage capacity.
Add a second wind turbine or solar panels to increase power production.
Get a higher Wattage inverter.
Some method to automatically furl or brake the unit in high winds.
A concrete foundation for the tower.
A taller tower with steel stakes and steel guy wires.
Most of these modifications won't be made until I am living on the site permanently, or semi-permanently. One modification I am going to work on completing in the next few months before my next trip out there is the weather-proof enclosure and probably adding the meters.
As the project evolves in the future, I'll post updates here.
UPDATE 03/19/07
This web site has become very popular. Thank you all for your interest and encouragement. I am getting tons of email questions from people about all sorts wind power related (and not so related) issues. Many are the same few questions asked over and over again. Unfortunately I simply don't have the time to answer them all. I do try to read them all, but my busy schedule simply doesn't allow enough time to respond to most of them. So don't take it personally if you don't get a response. I'll instead post responses to the most commonly asked questions here as time allows.
Question #1: How do you prevent the power cable coming down the inside of the tower from winding up over time?
Answer: This is by far the most asked question I get from people. The short answer is I don't do anything to prevent it. The cable really doesn't wind up all that badly. The wind is as liable to spin the turbine head around one way as it is the other. So there is no real tendency for the cable to wind up badly. If it does wind up over time, it is no big deal to simply disconnect the wires at the bottom and manually unwind it. I have an idea for a fairly easy to build slip-ring system that would prevent any possibility of winding up the cable. At present though, there is little need to actually try implementing it. Maybe I'll try it out on a future turbine.
Question #2: Can you help me design/build a wind power system that will power my whole home/farm so I can get out from under the thumb of my evil electric utility company?
Answer: The short answer is no. Not just due to time constraints, but also because my system isn't designed to produce enough electricity to power an entire home or farm. My system was just designed to provide a couple of hundred Watts tops in an area where no other electric options were available. I am working on design and construction of other wind turbines and even solar panels to increase my power production beyond the current minimal level. However, even if successful, these new additions would still not power a typical home or farm. My ultimate goal is to have enough power from wind and solar sources to power a small cabin and observatory on my remote property that will only be occupied occasionally and won't have much need for electricity. If you need a bigger system, then you need someone with experience with bigger systems to help you out.
Question #3: What are you working on now?
Answer: As time permits I am reworking the charge controller. It is going to be mounted in a weather-proof case with automotive-style voltage and amp meters installed on it. I have all the parts I need, but time to work on it is lacking. I am also working on a new design for the turbine head that will automatically turn out of the wind if it gets too strong so as to prevent over-speed damage. I have also started work on building a solar panel out of cheaply acquired solar cell seconds (from Ebay ) and commonly available construction materials. Once there is any progress on that project, I'll post it to the web site, but probably in its own section, rather than here on the wind turbine page.
UPDATE 05/17/07
Here is a photo of me setting up the wind turbine on my remote property during our May 2007 trip to Arizona. I had left most of the equipment on-site in Arizona. I only brought the turbine head and charge controller back home with me. Everything weathered the winter ok. Just some slight surface rust on parts of the tower base. Everything went back together quickly and worked great.
I used the wind turbine to power my new popup trailer on my spring vacation. The strong spring winds kept the wind turbine spinning all day every day and most of the nights too while I was in Arizona. The turbine provided enough power for the interior 12V lighting and enough 120V AC at the power outlets to keep my battery charger, electric shaver, and mini vacuum cleaner (camping is messy) all charged up and running. My girlfriend complained about it not having enough power to run her blow-dryer though.
Here my volt meter is showing the turbine producing 14.5 volts in a stiff wind. Although the wind turbine powered the popup fairly well, I think there is room for improvement. I was powering the popup with 120 Volts AC via my inverter. The popup has its own 120V AC to 12V DC power supply for powering the interior lighting and other 12V accessories. The losses involved in converting power to 120V AC and then back to 12V DC probably heavily contributed to the battery running down fairly quickly a couple of times during periods of light wind. Powering the 12V systems directly from the battery would probably work better. The only downside I see is that the DC voltage won't be regulated and could swing a couple of volts up or down with changes in wind speed. That wouldn't bother most kinds of lighting too much. Other devices could have a problem with it though.
This photo shows the turbine spinning away and cranking out the power. I haven't had the time to complete the rebuild of the charge controller in a weather-proof enclosure. So this time I just put all the electronics in a plastic bin to protect them from the elements. Good thing too, since it rained several times while we were there this time. The jug of lamp oil is on top of the bin to prevent the wind from ripping the lid off.
UPDATE 01/3/08
I have completed my first home-built solar panel. It will be used in addition to the wind turbine to produce more power on my remote Arizona land.
UPDATE 05/20/08
I have completed the rebuild of the charge controller. It is now in a semi-weatherproof enclosure and I have added a built in voltage meter. I have also added a few new features. The unit now has provisions for power inputs from multiple sources. It also has built-in fused 12V power distribution for three external loads.
This photo shows the inputs to the charge controller. It has provisions for 3 inputs. One for my wind turbine and two for solar panels, though I only have one solar panel complete at this time.
This photo shows the outputs from the charge controller. There are connections to the battery bank(s), dummy load, and three fused external 12V loads.
This photo shows the inside of the charge controller. I basically just transferred everything that I originally had bolted onto the plywood board in the prototype into this box. I added an automotive illuminated voltage gage and fuses for 3 external 12V loads. I used heavy gage wire to try to reduce losses due to wire resistance. Every watt counts when you are living off-grid.
This is the schematic for the new charge controller. It is pretty much the same as the old one above, except for the addition of the Volt meter and extra fuse blocks for the external loads. Click on it for a larger version.
This is a block diagram of the whole power system. click on it for a larger version. Note that I only have one solar panel built right now. I just haven't had the time to complete the second one. Please visit my home-built solar panel page.
UPDATE 07/18/08
Once again I stayed on my remote property during my recent vacation in Arizona. This time I had both my home-built wind turbine and my home-built solar panel with me. Working together, they provided plenty of power for my (admittedly minimal) electricity needs.
Here is a close-up of the solar panel. A write-up on how I built it can be found here. I have to move it several times each day to keep it pointed at the sun, but that isn't really a big hardship. Maybe someday I will build a tracking system to automatically keep it aimed at the sun.
Here is a photo of the new charge controller unit. The wires on the left side are coming from the wind turbine and solar panel. The wires on the right side are going to the battery bank and dummy load. I cut up an old heavy-duty 100 ft. extension cord to make cables to connect wind turbine and solar panel to the charge controller. The cable to the wind turbine is about 75 feet long and the cable to the solar panel is about 25 feet long. The battery bank I am currently using consists of 11 sealed lead-acid 12V batteries of 8 Amp-Hour capacity connected in parallel. That gives me 88 Amp-Hours of storage capacity, which is plenty for camping. As long as it is sunny and windy, (nearly every day is sunny and windy on my property), the wind turbine and solar panel keep the batteries well charged.
Disaster! I went into town to pick up some supplies. While I was gone, a wind storm came up. Winds well in excess of 50 MPH blew through my area. When I returned I found the turbine in this condition. Two blades had snapped off, and the third was cracked, but still attached. The blades broke where the mounting tab met the body of the blade. I knew this was a weak spot and always expected they would break there eventually. I don't know for sure if it was over-speed, or just fatigue from repeated flexing that caused them to break. I suspect fatigue though. I could see the blades flexing in strong winds before they broke. Interestingly though, I found that the battery bank was fully charged. The wind turbine must have generated some serious power in those high winds before it failed.
I knew I could get the wind turbine up and running again if I could just drill new mounting holes in the blades. I had no drill or drill bits with me though. I had to think about it for a while before I figured out how to do it. Then, the spirit of MacGyver came over me, and I knew just how to do it.
I figured out that if I heated my largest Phillips screwdriver over a fire, it would melt a hole in the PVC blades just the right size for the mounting bolts. So I got some charcoal going and started making holes. It's a terrible abuse of a perfectly good screwdriver, but it was an emergency situation after all.
I used one of the broken mounting tabs as a template to locate where to make the holes in the bases of the blades. Then it was straightforward to just melt through the blades with the screwdriver. It was very quick and easy, and the holes were very clean.
I then re-mounted the blades on the hub of the turbine. I used the broken mounting tabs as spacers under the blades to prevent them from fouling the heads of the bolts that hold the hub together. The tabless blades are much stronger and less likely to flex in strong winds. I should have done it this way in the beginning. Live and learn.
Here is the turbine all re-assembled and ready to go back up on the tower.
Here is the wind turbine up and flying again. The loss of two inches of blade length doesn't seem to have adversely impacted the performance of the turbine. It still works great. Not bad for an improvised repair job.
September 3, 2008
روزے كى حالت ميں ٹوتھ پيسٹ استعمال كرنا
كيا روزے كى حالت ميں دانتوں كى صفائى كے ليے ٹوتھ پيسٹ استعمال كرنى جائز ہے، ميرے علم كے مطابق اگر ٹوتھ پيسٹ پيٹ ميں نہ جائے يعنى اگر اسے نگلا نہ جائے تو اس كا استعمال جائز ہے، آپ سے گزارش ہيكہ اس موضوع ميں اپنى رائے كا اظہار فرمائيں ؟
الحمد للہ:
فضيلۃ الشيخ ابن باز رحمہ اللہ تعالى سے ٹوتھ پيسٹ استعمال كرنے كے متعلق دريافت كيا گيا تو ان كا جواب تھا:
جس طرح روزے دار كے ليے مسواك كرنا جائز ہے، اسى طرح اگر ٹوتھ پيسٹ ميں سے كچھ نگلا نہ جائے تو اس ميں بھى كوئى حرج نہيں ...
ديكھيں: فتاوى الشيخ ابن باز ( 4 / 247 ).
اور شيخ محمد صالح بن عثيمين رحمہ اللہ كا كہنا ہے:
" اس ميں سے يہ بھى نكلتا ہے كہ: كيا روزے دار كے ليے ٹوتھ پيسٹ اور برش استعمال كرنا جائز ہے يا نہيں ؟
جواب:
جائز ہے، ليكن بہتر يہى ہے كہ اسے استعمال نہ كيا جائے، كيونكہ اس ميں حلق تك جانے كى قوت ہوتى ہے، ٹوتھ پيسٹ دن كو استعمال كرنے كى بجائے رات كو استمال كر لى جائے"
ديكھيں: الشرح الممتع ابن عثيمين ( 6 / 407 - 408 ).
واللہ اعلم .
الشيخ محمد صالح المنجد
http://www.islam-qa.com/ur/ref/13619
الحمد للہ:
فضيلۃ الشيخ ابن باز رحمہ اللہ تعالى سے ٹوتھ پيسٹ استعمال كرنے كے متعلق دريافت كيا گيا تو ان كا جواب تھا:
جس طرح روزے دار كے ليے مسواك كرنا جائز ہے، اسى طرح اگر ٹوتھ پيسٹ ميں سے كچھ نگلا نہ جائے تو اس ميں بھى كوئى حرج نہيں ...
ديكھيں: فتاوى الشيخ ابن باز ( 4 / 247 ).
اور شيخ محمد صالح بن عثيمين رحمہ اللہ كا كہنا ہے:
" اس ميں سے يہ بھى نكلتا ہے كہ: كيا روزے دار كے ليے ٹوتھ پيسٹ اور برش استعمال كرنا جائز ہے يا نہيں ؟
جواب:
جائز ہے، ليكن بہتر يہى ہے كہ اسے استعمال نہ كيا جائے، كيونكہ اس ميں حلق تك جانے كى قوت ہوتى ہے، ٹوتھ پيسٹ دن كو استعمال كرنے كى بجائے رات كو استمال كر لى جائے"
ديكھيں: الشرح الممتع ابن عثيمين ( 6 / 407 - 408 ).
واللہ اعلم .
الشيخ محمد صالح المنجد
http://www.islam-qa.com/ur/ref/13619
Praying istikhaarah in all one’s affairs
We often hear about Salaat al-Istikhaarah, but we only do it in rare cases. Is this correct? I hope you can explain to us.
Praise be to Allaah.
Salaat al-Istikhaarah is a means of achieving true submission [‘uboodiyyah] to Allaah and focusing the Muslim’s heart on Allaah, and freeing him from feeling attached to other created beings.
Striving to achieve that in all vicissitudes of the heart and soul is the utmost submission, the perfection of putting one’s trust in Allaah. That is when the person feels his need of Allaah and finds joy and tranquillity in turning to the Creator, the Almighty, the Controller of affairs, so hardly anything happens to him, great or small, but he turns to Salaat al-Istikhaarah to seek guidance from Allaah, may He be glorified and exalted.
It was narrated that Jaabir ibn ‘Abd-Allaah (may Allaah be pleased with him) said: The Messenger of Allaah (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) used to teach his companions to pray istikhaarah in all things, just as he used to teach them soorahs from the Qur’aan Narrated by al-Bukhaari (6382).
Al-Haafiz Ibn Hajar said in Fath al-Baari (11/184):
The general meaning includes both major matters and insignificant ones. Perhaps an insignificant matter may result in something major. End quote.
Al-‘Ayni said in ‘Umdat al-Qaari (7/223):
The words “in all things” are indicative of its general meaning, and that a man should not regard anything as too insignificant because it is small and not pay attention to it, and thus not pray istikhaarah or pray for guidance concerning it. He may regard something as insignificant but doing it or not doing it may lead to great harm. Hence the Prophet (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) said: “Let one of you ask his Lord even with regard to his shoelace.” End quote.
Thus it is clear that it is a mistake to limit istikhaarah to rare cases or few issues. Rather the Muslim should turn to Allaah and seek His guidance in all his affairs concerning which he is hesitant. Zaynab bint Jahsh (may Allaah be pleased with her) prayed istikhaarah when she received a proposal of marriage from the Prophet (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him), and al-Nawawi (may Allaah have mercy on him) commented on that by saying in Sharh Muslim (9/224):
This shows that it is mustahabb to pray istikhaarah for the one who is thinking about doing something, whether the matter is evidently good or not. This is in accordance with the hadeeth of Jaabir in Saheeh al-Bukhaari: The Messenger of Allaah (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) used to teach us pray istikhaarah in all things.” And perhaps she prayed istikhaarah because she was afraid that she might fall short with regard to his rights (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him). End quote.
It says in Liqaa’aat al-Baab il-Maftooh by Shaykh Ibn ‘Uthaymeen (no. 85/question 1):
Question:
Are the two rak’ahs of istikhaarah prescribed only with regard to matters where it is not obvious which is the right option, or should they be done concerning every matter one does, even if it is obviously good, such as becoming the imam of a mosque or proposing marriage to a righteous woman and the like? I hope you can clarify?
Answer:
Salaat al-istikhaarah is done when a person is thinking of something and is hesitant about the consequences, so he prays istikhaarah to Allaah, i.e., he asks Allaah for the better of the two options: going ahead with it or not doing it. But he should not pray istikhaarah with regard to everything, meaning that if a person wants to eat lunch he should say, I will pray istikhaarah about it, or if he wants to go and pray with the congregation in the mosque he should say, I will pray istikhaarah about it. Rather he should pray istikhaarah and ask Allaah for guidance about things of which he does not know the consequences, such as becoming the imam of a mosque, if he is offered a position as imam of a mosque and does not know whether it is better for him to become imam or not. So he should pray istikhaarah, because being the imam is good in and of itself, but with regard to the consequences, he does not know whether he will be able to fulfil the duties of being imam or not, or whether he will be able to settle in this mosque or not, or whether he will be suitable for this congregation or not, so he is asking for guidance about becoming an imam with regard to whether it is good; rather he is praying for guidance as to whether it is better in terms of consequences. How often does a man become imam of a mosque then he gets tired and does not do his duty, and problems with the congregation make him wish that he had not become imam. The same applies to marrying a righteous woman; he does not know what the consequences will be.
What matters is that in all cases where you are hesitant or uncertain, you must turn to Allaah and ask Him for the better of the two options. End quote.
see this site for more detail
And Allaah knows best.
Praise be to Allaah.
Salaat al-Istikhaarah is a means of achieving true submission [‘uboodiyyah] to Allaah and focusing the Muslim’s heart on Allaah, and freeing him from feeling attached to other created beings.
Striving to achieve that in all vicissitudes of the heart and soul is the utmost submission, the perfection of putting one’s trust in Allaah. That is when the person feels his need of Allaah and finds joy and tranquillity in turning to the Creator, the Almighty, the Controller of affairs, so hardly anything happens to him, great or small, but he turns to Salaat al-Istikhaarah to seek guidance from Allaah, may He be glorified and exalted.
It was narrated that Jaabir ibn ‘Abd-Allaah (may Allaah be pleased with him) said: The Messenger of Allaah (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) used to teach his companions to pray istikhaarah in all things, just as he used to teach them soorahs from the Qur’aan Narrated by al-Bukhaari (6382).
Al-Haafiz Ibn Hajar said in Fath al-Baari (11/184):
The general meaning includes both major matters and insignificant ones. Perhaps an insignificant matter may result in something major. End quote.
Al-‘Ayni said in ‘Umdat al-Qaari (7/223):
The words “in all things” are indicative of its general meaning, and that a man should not regard anything as too insignificant because it is small and not pay attention to it, and thus not pray istikhaarah or pray for guidance concerning it. He may regard something as insignificant but doing it or not doing it may lead to great harm. Hence the Prophet (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) said: “Let one of you ask his Lord even with regard to his shoelace.” End quote.
Thus it is clear that it is a mistake to limit istikhaarah to rare cases or few issues. Rather the Muslim should turn to Allaah and seek His guidance in all his affairs concerning which he is hesitant. Zaynab bint Jahsh (may Allaah be pleased with her) prayed istikhaarah when she received a proposal of marriage from the Prophet (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him), and al-Nawawi (may Allaah have mercy on him) commented on that by saying in Sharh Muslim (9/224):
This shows that it is mustahabb to pray istikhaarah for the one who is thinking about doing something, whether the matter is evidently good or not. This is in accordance with the hadeeth of Jaabir in Saheeh al-Bukhaari: The Messenger of Allaah (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him) used to teach us pray istikhaarah in all things.” And perhaps she prayed istikhaarah because she was afraid that she might fall short with regard to his rights (peace and blessings of Allaah be upon him). End quote.
It says in Liqaa’aat al-Baab il-Maftooh by Shaykh Ibn ‘Uthaymeen (no. 85/question 1):
Question:
Are the two rak’ahs of istikhaarah prescribed only with regard to matters where it is not obvious which is the right option, or should they be done concerning every matter one does, even if it is obviously good, such as becoming the imam of a mosque or proposing marriage to a righteous woman and the like? I hope you can clarify?
Answer:
Salaat al-istikhaarah is done when a person is thinking of something and is hesitant about the consequences, so he prays istikhaarah to Allaah, i.e., he asks Allaah for the better of the two options: going ahead with it or not doing it. But he should not pray istikhaarah with regard to everything, meaning that if a person wants to eat lunch he should say, I will pray istikhaarah about it, or if he wants to go and pray with the congregation in the mosque he should say, I will pray istikhaarah about it. Rather he should pray istikhaarah and ask Allaah for guidance about things of which he does not know the consequences, such as becoming the imam of a mosque, if he is offered a position as imam of a mosque and does not know whether it is better for him to become imam or not. So he should pray istikhaarah, because being the imam is good in and of itself, but with regard to the consequences, he does not know whether he will be able to fulfil the duties of being imam or not, or whether he will be able to settle in this mosque or not, or whether he will be suitable for this congregation or not, so he is asking for guidance about becoming an imam with regard to whether it is good; rather he is praying for guidance as to whether it is better in terms of consequences. How often does a man become imam of a mosque then he gets tired and does not do his duty, and problems with the congregation make him wish that he had not become imam. The same applies to marrying a righteous woman; he does not know what the consequences will be.
What matters is that in all cases where you are hesitant or uncertain, you must turn to Allaah and ask Him for the better of the two options. End quote.
see this site for more detail
And Allaah knows best.
September 2, 2008
iPMS v2.1 - iSergiwa Portable free Malware
iPMS v2.1 - iSergiwa Portable Malware iPMS detects and removes tons of malware like viruses, worms, spyware, trojans. It removes them from all your hard drives, shared network drives, floppy disks and USB flash disks (removable media must be write enabled during the scan process).
However, the demo version of iPMS is only for detection purpuses, it does NOT remove any malicious objects!
iPMS Targets
You can view a list of all malware targeted by iPMS v2.1 by clicking on TARGETS button. You can also view a full list of malicious objects targeted by iPMS online by clicking here
How to use iPMS?
To do a full scan, start your computer in safe mode and run iPMS then click START. To scan individual objects (drives, folders..) click INSTALL button, this will integrate iPMS with your Windows Explorer and add an item to the explorer context menu called "Scan with iPMS". Use this item whenever you need to scan any individual object.
How to update iPMS program?
All you have to do is to click UPDATE button and follow the instructions.
How to update iPMS targets database?
All you have to do is to click UPDATE button and follow the instructions.
Important note:
Since this tool is a security software that deals with the file system, the system registry and the running processes, it MUST be given all the rights it demands in order for it to do it's job. Some other security softwares will try to block the tool and prevent it from doing its job, please make sure that it's not blocked by your filewall and there's no other program blocking it.
Before running this tool, we recommend you to disable any other security solution you are runing such as Antivirus, Firewall, monitoring tools ..etc.
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This is the recommended authorized reseller of our products, they accept almost any type of payments methods, CC, PayPal, Wire transfer, pay by fax ...etc, they have an excellent customer support 24/7 an live assistance, you can buy in a secured place and enjoy the discounts and the special promotions, and the most great thing is that you don't have to wait to get your product activated as the activation process is fully automated. To buy iPMS from Plimus click here
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If you do not have a Credit Card or you want to pay by PayPal or you want enjoy the discount options for bulk orders, you may purchase iPMS from Avangate here
Buy from CNET
If you have not purchased the software yet and you have your Credit Card ready and you need to buy only one unit from CNET, please do it by clicking here
Notes for CNET buyers:
Once you purchase CaSIR, you'll receive a confirmation asking you to send your CaSIR ID to sales@sergiwa.com. CaSIR ID is the number CaSIR shows up when it starts up, it's usually a number of 8 or 9 digits, once you send your CaSIR ID, you'll instantly get your activation code!
However, the demo version of iPMS is only for detection purpuses, it does NOT remove any malicious objects!
iPMS Targets
You can view a list of all malware targeted by iPMS v2.1 by clicking on TARGETS button. You can also view a full list of malicious objects targeted by iPMS online by clicking here
How to use iPMS?
To do a full scan, start your computer in safe mode and run iPMS then click START. To scan individual objects (drives, folders..) click INSTALL button, this will integrate iPMS with your Windows Explorer and add an item to the explorer context menu called "Scan with iPMS". Use this item whenever you need to scan any individual object.
How to update iPMS program?
All you have to do is to click UPDATE button and follow the instructions.
How to update iPMS targets database?
All you have to do is to click UPDATE button and follow the instructions.
Important note:
Since this tool is a security software that deals with the file system, the system registry and the running processes, it MUST be given all the rights it demands in order for it to do it's job. Some other security softwares will try to block the tool and prevent it from doing its job, please make sure that it's not blocked by your filewall and there's no other program blocking it.
Before running this tool, we recommend you to disable any other security solution you are runing such as Antivirus, Firewall, monitoring tools ..etc.
How to buy iPMS Pro?
iPMS license is “Per User” which means that once you purchase the software you will be able to use it to scan and clean unlimited number of computers. iPMS license rely physically on a flash disk/thumb drive/memory card you select to be as a USB Dongle. Plug in your flash disk into your computer and run iPMS, your thumb drive will act like a USB dongle, iPMS will give you a number consists of 8 or 9 digits which we call iPMS ID. Send this ID to sales@sergiwa.com along with your proof of purchase and we will send you the activation code. This will allow you to use iPMS Pro as a portable software on any computer that has your thumb drive plugged in. Please do not format your thumb drive or throw it away as it will be your physical license. iPMS will NOT work in Pro mode unless you have your USB dongle plugged in.
Buy from Plimus (Recommended)
This is the recommended authorized reseller of our products, they accept almost any type of payments methods, CC, PayPal, Wire transfer, pay by fax ...etc, they have an excellent customer support 24/7 an live assistance, you can buy in a secured place and enjoy the discounts and the special promotions, and the most great thing is that you don't have to wait to get your product activated as the activation process is fully automated. To buy iPMS from Plimus click here
Buy from Avangate
If you do not have a Credit Card or you want to pay by PayPal or you want enjoy the discount options for bulk orders, you may purchase iPMS from Avangate here
Buy from CNET
If you have not purchased the software yet and you have your Credit Card ready and you need to buy only one unit from CNET, please do it by clicking here
Notes for CNET buyers:
Once you purchase CaSIR, you'll receive a confirmation asking you to send your CaSIR ID to sales@sergiwa.com. CaSIR ID is the number CaSIR shows up when it starts up, it's usually a number of 8 or 9 digits, once you send your CaSIR ID, you'll instantly get your activation code!
iSergiwa free Software
If you have reached this page, then you probably have been sent here by one of our other free programs :RRT,PRT, DRT,SRT or isReset
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By using our free programs above, you probably have got rid of some common infectors like:
Virus.Win32.Perlovga.a
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W32/QQRob-ABX
Alnooh
IM-Worm.Win32.Sohanad.ao
IM-Worm.Win32.Sohanad.as
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Good examples of the those infectors are:
Win32.Brontok.q
Win32.Delf.cc
Win32.VB.by
Win32.VB.cz
Trojan.Win32.Small.wv (Medichi & Medichi2)
Trojan-Downloader.Win32.Todon.ai
Trojan-Downloader.Win32.Todon.aj
Worm.Win32.AutoRun.dkk (Ahsan virus)
Trojan-Downloader.Win32.VB.bbl
If one of the above nasty infectors infected your computer you will not be able to install any of the well-known Antivirus software like Kaspersky, Mcafee, Norton, AVG, Panda... (and about 135 more Different AVs)! and please, don't try to use the Safe Mode to remove them manually because those infectors will disable the "Safe Mode"!
How do you get infected by these CaSI's?
Well, mostly because you open an attachment from an email that isn't from one of your friends. Or by using infected removable storage medias (CDs,DVDs/Floppy disks/Flash disks, Memory Cards...). Or just by visiting a suspect website which can result in your computer being compromised.
The only thing that could have saved you was having a good Anti-Virus program with up-to-date signatures. If you didn't have those installed on your computer these CaSI's could enter your system with ease and change lots of settings.
Once you are infected, NOTHING (no well-known anti-virus program such as Kaspersky, Norton, Symantec, McAfee, NOD32, etc.) can rescue you anymore. You and your computer are doomed.
But now there is a solution and it is called CaSIR
What is CaSIR?
CaSIR (Common And Stubborn Infections Remover) -- is an on-demand malware removal software. We designed it especially to remove the most common and stubborn infections from your computer. It can remove their running processes, their bodies, their registry entries and any other leftovers!
CaSIR doesn't randomly search for CaSIs, but he goes directly to the areas that a specific CaSI infects and removes it from there, hence, it does its job in mere seconds!
CaSIR does more than that. It has a generic and strong technique that allows it to do the following:
. CaSIR removes the common restrictions made to your computer by those infectors which none of the AVs deal with.
. CaSIR removes the illegitmate services frequently used by those infectors.
. CaSIR recognizes and instantly kills and deletes any running process that is disguising itself among the legitimate system services.
. CaSIR removes any scripts used by those infectors to autorun.
. CaSIR removes any autostarting registry entries related to the illegitmate services he detects.
. CaSIR deals with all your storage medias (Fixed, floppy, removable...) and cleans them up all if need be.
. CaSIR cleans up your system registry so no more spy keys, garbage activities or messages keep asking for already deleted files.
. CaSIR's signatures are fully updatable, once you download the software, all you need to do is to download the new definitions frequently and you're up-to-date and ready-to-go.
How to use CaSIR?
Just extract the zip-file you download which contains only two files:
- CaSIR20.exe: The main executable file.
- casirdef.cas The definitions file.
Simply run CaSIR (in Normal Mode) and press Start, Wait for seconds' and you're done!
If CaSIR detected any CaSIs, it will restart your computer and works in what we calls "Pre-$hell mode", after finishing it's job, CaSIR will restart your computer in Normal mode.
Important notes:
1. Since CaSIR is a security software that deal with the file system, the system registry and the running processes, it MUST be given all the rights it demands in order to remove any infection. Some other security softwares will try to block CaSIR and prevent it from doing its job, please make sure it's not blocked and there's no other program blocking CaSIR. During disinfection process we recommend you to disable any other security solution you are runing such as Antivirus, Firewall, monitoring tools ..etc.
2. Please do NOT attempt to run CaSIR in safe mode, CaSIR needs to investigate your system to know what CaSIs are active, if you ran CaSIR in safe mode, he might not be able to detect any active CaSIs, as they usually do not run in safe mode!
3. If you have more than one infected computer connected together to the same local network, do NOT attempt to use CaSIR on the infected computer while the other infected ones are connected to it, this would results in getting infected again and again. You always need to disconnect the infected computer from the network before using CaSIR and do so with all your infected computers one by one!
What is "CDS Jobs" button? and why is it there?
CDS is short for "CaSIR Deep Scanner". This is the part of CaSIR which uses the classic method of searching for malware; By the binary signature. We have added this new section of CaSIR starting from v2.0 because we lately noticed that some CaSIs' authors have developed a new method of making identifying their malware more difficult, that is to make the CaSI spread using random file names, random registry keys, random registry values and random running processes names, so that any algorithm based on the malware File/Folder/RegKey/RegVal/Running Modules/Processes/Threads names would fail and be of no use!
If CaSIR detected any such a nasty CaSIs (those with random techniques), he will analyze the situation first and kill the active parts of the CaSI, then invoke the CDS which will scan all your hard disks/floppy disks/flash disks/memory cards/iPod/MP3/WMA Drivers available on your system to clean them, then he will restart your computer in Pre-$hell mode to continue removing the other CaSIs, after finishing it's job, CaSIR will restart your computer in normal mode with a "Congratulations" message!
Please note that you can cancel those processes at any time, but we strongly don't recommend that, because by doing that, you will put your computer in a dangerous situation as the CaSI will come back again when you restart your computer, so please be patient and let CaSIR finish it's job.
Does CaSIR generate a log report?
Yes, after every phase of work, CaSIR will automatically generate a report file and saves it in same folder where CaSIR is. The report file always has the name: casirrpt.txt! This file is needed by us when you have any problem or inquiry and need to contact us, so please don't forget to attach this file with your inquiry.
How to update CaSIR definitions?
There's two methods of getting updates, offline and Online:
1. The Online method:
Simply press "Update" button and follow the instructions on screen.
2. The Offline method:
Visit www.sergiwa.com and go to downloads section, under Security software, you'll find CaSIR Definitions file. Download it. The definitions file is a very small zipped file that contains the CaSIs signatures. All you have to do is to download casirdef.zip, extract its contents and replace it with the old one!
What are those RNP, GFL, SFL, GFD, SFD, RKM, RKD, RKA, RSO?
When CaSIR find an infection on your computer, it shows up the infection in the following way :
XXX - YYY
XXX: is the type of the infection found
YYY: is the infection itself
XXX has 9 different keywords
RNP : Running Process
GFL : Group of Files
SFL : Single File
GFD : Group of Folders
SFD : Single Folder
RKM : Registry Key to be Modified
RKD : Registry Key to be Deleted
RKA : Registry Key to be Added
RSO: Regular System Optimization
How to buy CaSIR?
The Demo-version only detects the infection but doesn't remove them. To fully remove the infections you have to buy the Pro-version. If you are currently using the DEMO version of CaSIR, you will be automatically taken to this page whenever an infection found in your computer.
Buy from Plimus (Recommended)
This is the recommended authorized reseller of our products, they accept almost any type of payments methods, CC, PayPal, Wire transfer, pay by fax ...etc, they have an excellent customer support 24/7 an live assistance, you can buy in a secured place and enjoy the discounts and the special promotions, and the most great thing is that you don't have to wait to get your product activated as the activation process is fully automated. To buy CaSIR from Plimus click here
Buy from Avangate
If you do not have a Credit Card or you want to pay by PayPal or you want enjoy the discount options for bulk orders, you may purchase CaSIR from Avangate by clicking here
Buy from CNET
If you have your Credit Card ready and you need to buy only one unit, you may purchase CaSIR from CNET by clicking here
Notes for CNET buyers:
Once you purchase CaSIR, you'll receive a confirmation asking you to send your CaSIR ID to sales@sergiwa.com. CaSIR ID is the number CaSIR shows up when it starts up, it's usually a number of 8 or 9 digits, once you send your CaSIR ID, you'll instantly get your activation code!
Didn't get the activation code by email?
Below are some of the most common reasons you might not be getting the activation code by email.
* First, be patient, sometimes it takes a while for the email to arrive.
* Check to ensure you entered your email address correctly when you purchased the software. If it's wrong, contact us and provide a valid email.
* Check your junk email box, the email might have been filtered as junk.
* If you can't still get the email, post here and we'll help you to sort it out.
CaSIR v2.2 - Common and Stubborn Infections
By using our free programs above, you probably have got rid of some common infectors like:
Virus.Win32.Perlovga.a
Virus.Win32.Perlovga.b
Trojan-Dropper.Win32.Small.apl
Backdoor.Win32.small.lo
W32/QQRob-ABX
Alnooh
IM-Worm.Win32.Sohanad.ao
IM-Worm.Win32.Sohanad.as
IM-Worm.Win32.Sohanad.am
IM-Worm.Win32.Sohanad.ap
And you probably have got rid of the problems and the restrictions made by those infectors!
But this is NOT the end, Those infectors are NOTHING comparing to CaSIs!!!
What are CaSIs?
CaSIs is short for Common and Stubborn Infectors. These are malicious programs (viruses, worms, Trojans, etc.) that are notoriously difficult to detect and to remove by regular anti-virus programs. These programs often have the capability to disable your computer or your anti-virus programs.
Good examples of the those infectors are:
Win32.Brontok.q
Win32.Delf.cc
Win32.VB.by
Win32.VB.cz
Trojan.Win32.Small.wv (Medichi & Medichi2)
Trojan-Downloader.Win32.Todon.ai
Trojan-Downloader.Win32.Todon.aj
Worm.Win32.AutoRun.dkk (Ahsan virus)
Trojan-Downloader.Win32.VB.bbl
If one of the above nasty infectors infected your computer you will not be able to install any of the well-known Antivirus software like Kaspersky, Mcafee, Norton, AVG, Panda... (and about 135 more Different AVs)! and please, don't try to use the Safe Mode to remove them manually because those infectors will disable the "Safe Mode"!
How do you get infected by these CaSI's?
Well, mostly because you open an attachment from an email that isn't from one of your friends. Or by using infected removable storage medias (CDs,DVDs/Floppy disks/Flash disks, Memory Cards...). Or just by visiting a suspect website which can result in your computer being compromised.
The only thing that could have saved you was having a good Anti-Virus program with up-to-date signatures. If you didn't have those installed on your computer these CaSI's could enter your system with ease and change lots of settings.
Once you are infected, NOTHING (no well-known anti-virus program such as Kaspersky, Norton, Symantec, McAfee, NOD32, etc.) can rescue you anymore. You and your computer are doomed.
But now there is a solution and it is called CaSIR
What is CaSIR?
CaSIR (Common And Stubborn Infections Remover) -- is an on-demand malware removal software. We designed it especially to remove the most common and stubborn infections from your computer. It can remove their running processes, their bodies, their registry entries and any other leftovers!
CaSIR doesn't randomly search for CaSIs, but he goes directly to the areas that a specific CaSI infects and removes it from there, hence, it does its job in mere seconds!
CaSIR does more than that. It has a generic and strong technique that allows it to do the following:
. CaSIR removes the common restrictions made to your computer by those infectors which none of the AVs deal with.
. CaSIR removes the illegitmate services frequently used by those infectors.
. CaSIR recognizes and instantly kills and deletes any running process that is disguising itself among the legitimate system services.
. CaSIR removes any scripts used by those infectors to autorun.
. CaSIR removes any autostarting registry entries related to the illegitmate services he detects.
. CaSIR deals with all your storage medias (Fixed, floppy, removable...) and cleans them up all if need be.
. CaSIR cleans up your system registry so no more spy keys, garbage activities or messages keep asking for already deleted files.
. CaSIR's signatures are fully updatable, once you download the software, all you need to do is to download the new definitions frequently and you're up-to-date and ready-to-go.
How to use CaSIR?
Just extract the zip-file you download which contains only two files:
- CaSIR20.exe: The main executable file.
- casirdef.cas The definitions file.
Simply run CaSIR (in Normal Mode) and press Start, Wait for seconds' and you're done!
If CaSIR detected any CaSIs, it will restart your computer and works in what we calls "Pre-$hell mode", after finishing it's job, CaSIR will restart your computer in Normal mode.
Important notes:
1. Since CaSIR is a security software that deal with the file system, the system registry and the running processes, it MUST be given all the rights it demands in order to remove any infection. Some other security softwares will try to block CaSIR and prevent it from doing its job, please make sure it's not blocked and there's no other program blocking CaSIR. During disinfection process we recommend you to disable any other security solution you are runing such as Antivirus, Firewall, monitoring tools ..etc.
2. Please do NOT attempt to run CaSIR in safe mode, CaSIR needs to investigate your system to know what CaSIs are active, if you ran CaSIR in safe mode, he might not be able to detect any active CaSIs, as they usually do not run in safe mode!
3. If you have more than one infected computer connected together to the same local network, do NOT attempt to use CaSIR on the infected computer while the other infected ones are connected to it, this would results in getting infected again and again. You always need to disconnect the infected computer from the network before using CaSIR and do so with all your infected computers one by one!
What is "CDS Jobs" button? and why is it there?
CDS is short for "CaSIR Deep Scanner". This is the part of CaSIR which uses the classic method of searching for malware; By the binary signature. We have added this new section of CaSIR starting from v2.0 because we lately noticed that some CaSIs' authors have developed a new method of making identifying their malware more difficult, that is to make the CaSI spread using random file names, random registry keys, random registry values and random running processes names, so that any algorithm based on the malware File/Folder/RegKey/RegVal/Running Modules/Processes/Threads names would fail and be of no use!
If CaSIR detected any such a nasty CaSIs (those with random techniques), he will analyze the situation first and kill the active parts of the CaSI, then invoke the CDS which will scan all your hard disks/floppy disks/flash disks/memory cards/iPod/MP3/WMA Drivers available on your system to clean them, then he will restart your computer in Pre-$hell mode to continue removing the other CaSIs, after finishing it's job, CaSIR will restart your computer in normal mode with a "Congratulations" message!
Please note that you can cancel those processes at any time, but we strongly don't recommend that, because by doing that, you will put your computer in a dangerous situation as the CaSI will come back again when you restart your computer, so please be patient and let CaSIR finish it's job.
Does CaSIR generate a log report?
Yes, after every phase of work, CaSIR will automatically generate a report file and saves it in same folder where CaSIR is. The report file always has the name: casirrpt.txt! This file is needed by us when you have any problem or inquiry and need to contact us, so please don't forget to attach this file with your inquiry.
How to update CaSIR definitions?
There's two methods of getting updates, offline and Online:
1. The Online method:
Simply press "Update" button and follow the instructions on screen.
2. The Offline method:
Visit www.sergiwa.com and go to downloads section, under Security software, you'll find CaSIR Definitions file. Download it. The definitions file is a very small zipped file that contains the CaSIs signatures. All you have to do is to download casirdef.zip, extract its contents and replace it with the old one!
What are those RNP, GFL, SFL, GFD, SFD, RKM, RKD, RKA, RSO?
When CaSIR find an infection on your computer, it shows up the infection in the following way :
XXX - YYY
XXX: is the type of the infection found
YYY: is the infection itself
XXX has 9 different keywords
RNP : Running Process
GFL : Group of Files
SFL : Single File
GFD : Group of Folders
SFD : Single Folder
RKM : Registry Key to be Modified
RKD : Registry Key to be Deleted
RKA : Registry Key to be Added
RSO: Regular System Optimization
How to buy CaSIR?
The Demo-version only detects the infection but doesn't remove them. To fully remove the infections you have to buy the Pro-version. If you are currently using the DEMO version of CaSIR, you will be automatically taken to this page whenever an infection found in your computer.
Buy from Plimus (Recommended)
This is the recommended authorized reseller of our products, they accept almost any type of payments methods, CC, PayPal, Wire transfer, pay by fax ...etc, they have an excellent customer support 24/7 an live assistance, you can buy in a secured place and enjoy the discounts and the special promotions, and the most great thing is that you don't have to wait to get your product activated as the activation process is fully automated. To buy CaSIR from Plimus click here
Buy from Avangate
If you do not have a Credit Card or you want to pay by PayPal or you want enjoy the discount options for bulk orders, you may purchase CaSIR from Avangate by clicking here
Buy from CNET
If you have your Credit Card ready and you need to buy only one unit, you may purchase CaSIR from CNET by clicking here
Notes for CNET buyers:
Once you purchase CaSIR, you'll receive a confirmation asking you to send your CaSIR ID to sales@sergiwa.com. CaSIR ID is the number CaSIR shows up when it starts up, it's usually a number of 8 or 9 digits, once you send your CaSIR ID, you'll instantly get your activation code!
Didn't get the activation code by email?
Below are some of the most common reasons you might not be getting the activation code by email.
* First, be patient, sometimes it takes a while for the email to arrive.
* Check to ensure you entered your email address correctly when you purchased the software. If it's wrong, contact us and provide a valid email.
* Check your junk email box, the email might have been filtered as junk.
* If you can't still get the email, post here and we'll help you to sort it out.
September 1, 2008
How to install or upgrade to Windows XP
SUMMARY
This step-by-step article describes how to install Windows XP.
For more information about how to install Windows XP Professional, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
286463 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/286463/) Release notes for Windows XP Setup contained in the Pro.txt file
For more information about how to install Windows XP Home Edition, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
306824 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306824/) Release notes for Windows XP Setup contained in the Home.txt file
Back to the top
Methods to install Windows XP
To install Windows XP, use one of the following methods.
Back to the top
Method 1: Upgrade to Windows XP
This section describes how to upgrade to Windows XP from Microsoft Windows 98, Microsoft Windows Millennium Edition, and Microsoft Windows 2000 Professional.
Note Before you start the upgrade process, obtain and install the latest BIOS upgrade for your computer from the computer's manufacturer. If you update the BIOS after you upgrade the computer, you may have to reinstall Windows XP to take advantage of features such as Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) support in the BIOS. If you can do this, update the firmware in all the hardware devices before you start the upgrade.
Also, you may want to disconnect from the Internet during the installation. Disconnecting from the Internet during the installation helps protect you from malicious users. You may also want to enable the Microsoft Internet Explorer firewall. For more information, see the "Enable or disable Internet Connection Firewall" topic in Windows XP Help. For more information about how to prepare Windows 98 or Windows Millennium Edition for an upgrade to Windows XP, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
316639 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/316639/) How to prepare to upgrade Windows 98 or Windows Millennium Edition to Windows XP
To upgrade to Windows XP, follow these steps:1. Start your computer, and then insert the Windows XP CD into the CD or DVD drive.
2. If Windows automatically detects the CD, click Install Windows to start the Windows XP Setup Wizard.
If Windows does not automatically detect the CD, click Start, click Run, type the following command, and then click OK:
CD drive letter:\setup.exe
3. When you are prompted to select an installation type, select Upgrade (the default setting), and then click Next.
4. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete the upgrade.
Back to the top
Method 2: Install Windows XP to a new hard disk
First, start your computer by using one of the following media: • Microsoft Windows 98/Windows Millennium startup disk
• Windows XP boot disks
• Windows XP CD
For more information about how to obtain the Windows XP Setup boot disks, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
310994 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310994/) How to obtain Windows XP Setup boot disks
Note If you want to start your computer from the Windows XP CD, your CD or DVD drive must be configured to do this. For information about how to configure your computer to start from the CD or DVD drive, see the documentation that is included with your computer or contact the computer manufacturer.
To install Windows XP to a new hard disk, follow these steps:1. Read the Microsoft Software License Terms, and then press F8.
Note If your Windows XP CD is an upgrade, you are prompted to insert a CD of a previous operating system to verify upgrade compliance. Remove the Windows XP CD, and then insert the CD from your previous operating system into the CD drive. You can use the CD to upgrade from the following versions of Windows:
Windows 98
Windows 98 Second Edition
Windows Millennium Edition
Windows NT 4.0
Windows 2000 Professional
2. When you are prompted for the Windows XP CD, remove your previous operating system CD, and then insert your Windows XP CD.
3. To install Windows XP by starting the computer from the Windows XP CD, insert the Windows XP CD into your CD or DVD drive, and then restart the computer.
4. When you see the "Press any key to boot from CD" message, press any key to start the computer from the Windows XP CD.
5. At the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER to start Windows XP Setup.
6. Follow the instructions on the screen to select and format a partition where you want to install Windows XP.
7. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Windows XP Setup.
Back to the top
Method 3: Install Windows XP to a new folder
First, start your computer by using one of the following media: • Microsoft Windows 98/Windows Millennium Edition startup disk
• Windows XP boot disks
• Windows XP CD
For more information about how to start Setup from MS-DOS or a Windows 98/Windows Millennium Edition startup disk, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
307848 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307848/) How to start the Setup program from MS-DOS in Windows XP
For more information about how to obtain the Windows XP Setup boot disks, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
310994 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310994/) How to obtain Windows XP Setup boot disks
Note If you want to start your computer from the Windows XP CD, your CD or DVD drive must be configured to do this. For information about how to configure your computer to start from the CD or DVD drive, see the documentation that is included with your computer or contact the computer manufacturer.
To install Windows XP to a new folder (also known as a parallel installation), follow these steps:1. Start your computer from the Windows XP CD. To do this, insert the Windows XP CD into your CD or DVD drive, and then restart your computer.
2. When the "Press any key to boot from CD" message appears on the screen, press any key to start the computer from the Windows XP CD.
3. At the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER to begin Windows XP Setup.
4. Read the Microsoft Software License Terms, and then press F8.
5. Select the partition in which you want to install Windows XP, and then press ENTER.
6. Select the Leave the current file system intact (no changes) option, and then press ENTER to continue.
7. Press ESC to install to a different folder.
If the Setup program detects another operating system folder, it prompts you to type the name for the new folder after the backslash (\), for example, \WINXP. If there are no other operating systems detected, the Setup program automatically names the folder \Windows.
8. Press ENTER to continue.
9. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Windows XP Setup.
For more information about how to change the folder name on new installations, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
315242 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315242/) How to designate the original folder name for a reinstallation of Windows XP
Back to the top
Method 4: Perform a clean install of Windows XP
A clean installation refers to removing all data from your hard disk by repartitioning and reformatting your hard disk and reinstalling the operating system and programs to an empty (clean) hard disk. You should back up all important information before you perform a clean installation of Windows XP.
For more information about important things to consider before you partition and format you hard disk and how to partition and format your hard disk by using the Windows XP Setup program, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
313348 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/313348/) How to partition and format a hard disk in Windows XP
After you have backed up all important information, follow these steps to install Windows XP:1. Start your computer from the Windows XP CD. To do this, insert the Windows XP CD into your CD drive or DVD drive, and then restart your computer.
2. When you see the "Press any key to boot from CD" message, press any key to start the computer from the Windows XP CD.
3. At the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER to start Windows XP Setup.
4. Read the Microsoft Software License Terms, and then press F8.
5. Follow the instructions on the screen to select and format a partition where you want to install Windows XP.
6. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Windows XP Setup.
Back to the top
Method 5: Perform a multiple boot operation
For more information about how to multiple boot Windows XP and other versions of Windows and MS-DOS, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
217210 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/217210/) How to multiple boot Windows XP, Windows 2000, Windows NT, Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows Me, and MS-DOS
Back to the top
TROUBLESHOOTING
For more information about how to troubleshoot installation problems, click the following article numbers to view the articles in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
310637 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310637/) You receive an error message after you enter the product key when you try to install Windows XP
310064 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310064/) How to troubleshoot problems during installation when you upgrade from Windows 98 or Windows Millennium Edition to Windows XP
If you still have problems with installation, you might want to ask someone for help or contact support. For information about how to contact support, visit the following Microsoft Web site:
http://support.microsoft.com/contactus/ (http://support.microsoft.com/contactus/)
Back to the top
MORE INFORMATION
For more information, click the following article numbers to view the articles in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
307726 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307726/) Description of the Windows XP Upgrade Advisor
314062 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314062/) The latest Windows XP Hardware Compatibility List
295322 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/295322/) How to determine if hardware or software is compatible with Windows XP
For more information, visit the following Microsoft Web site:
http://support.microsoft.com/ph/1173 (http://support.microsoft.com/ph/1173)
If these Microsoft Knowledge Base articles do not help you resolve the problem, or if you experience symptoms that differ from those that this article describes, please search the Microsoft Knowledge Base for more information. To search the Microsoft Knowledge Base, visit the following Microsoft Web site:
http://support.microsoft.com (http://support.microsoft.com/)
This step-by-step article describes how to install Windows XP.
For more information about how to install Windows XP Professional, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
286463 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/286463/) Release notes for Windows XP Setup contained in the Pro.txt file
For more information about how to install Windows XP Home Edition, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
306824 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306824/) Release notes for Windows XP Setup contained in the Home.txt file
Back to the top
Methods to install Windows XP
To install Windows XP, use one of the following methods.
Back to the top
Method 1: Upgrade to Windows XP
This section describes how to upgrade to Windows XP from Microsoft Windows 98, Microsoft Windows Millennium Edition, and Microsoft Windows 2000 Professional.
Note Before you start the upgrade process, obtain and install the latest BIOS upgrade for your computer from the computer's manufacturer. If you update the BIOS after you upgrade the computer, you may have to reinstall Windows XP to take advantage of features such as Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) support in the BIOS. If you can do this, update the firmware in all the hardware devices before you start the upgrade.
Also, you may want to disconnect from the Internet during the installation. Disconnecting from the Internet during the installation helps protect you from malicious users. You may also want to enable the Microsoft Internet Explorer firewall. For more information, see the "Enable or disable Internet Connection Firewall" topic in Windows XP Help. For more information about how to prepare Windows 98 or Windows Millennium Edition for an upgrade to Windows XP, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
316639 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/316639/) How to prepare to upgrade Windows 98 or Windows Millennium Edition to Windows XP
To upgrade to Windows XP, follow these steps:1. Start your computer, and then insert the Windows XP CD into the CD or DVD drive.
2. If Windows automatically detects the CD, click Install Windows to start the Windows XP Setup Wizard.
If Windows does not automatically detect the CD, click Start, click Run, type the following command, and then click OK:
CD drive letter:\setup.exe
3. When you are prompted to select an installation type, select Upgrade (the default setting), and then click Next.
4. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete the upgrade.
Back to the top
Method 2: Install Windows XP to a new hard disk
First, start your computer by using one of the following media: • Microsoft Windows 98/Windows Millennium startup disk
• Windows XP boot disks
• Windows XP CD
For more information about how to obtain the Windows XP Setup boot disks, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
310994 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310994/) How to obtain Windows XP Setup boot disks
Note If you want to start your computer from the Windows XP CD, your CD or DVD drive must be configured to do this. For information about how to configure your computer to start from the CD or DVD drive, see the documentation that is included with your computer or contact the computer manufacturer.
To install Windows XP to a new hard disk, follow these steps:1. Read the Microsoft Software License Terms, and then press F8.
Note If your Windows XP CD is an upgrade, you are prompted to insert a CD of a previous operating system to verify upgrade compliance. Remove the Windows XP CD, and then insert the CD from your previous operating system into the CD drive. You can use the CD to upgrade from the following versions of Windows:
Windows 98
Windows 98 Second Edition
Windows Millennium Edition
Windows NT 4.0
Windows 2000 Professional
2. When you are prompted for the Windows XP CD, remove your previous operating system CD, and then insert your Windows XP CD.
3. To install Windows XP by starting the computer from the Windows XP CD, insert the Windows XP CD into your CD or DVD drive, and then restart the computer.
4. When you see the "Press any key to boot from CD" message, press any key to start the computer from the Windows XP CD.
5. At the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER to start Windows XP Setup.
6. Follow the instructions on the screen to select and format a partition where you want to install Windows XP.
7. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Windows XP Setup.
Back to the top
Method 3: Install Windows XP to a new folder
First, start your computer by using one of the following media: • Microsoft Windows 98/Windows Millennium Edition startup disk
• Windows XP boot disks
• Windows XP CD
For more information about how to start Setup from MS-DOS or a Windows 98/Windows Millennium Edition startup disk, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
307848 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307848/) How to start the Setup program from MS-DOS in Windows XP
For more information about how to obtain the Windows XP Setup boot disks, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
310994 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310994/) How to obtain Windows XP Setup boot disks
Note If you want to start your computer from the Windows XP CD, your CD or DVD drive must be configured to do this. For information about how to configure your computer to start from the CD or DVD drive, see the documentation that is included with your computer or contact the computer manufacturer.
To install Windows XP to a new folder (also known as a parallel installation), follow these steps:1. Start your computer from the Windows XP CD. To do this, insert the Windows XP CD into your CD or DVD drive, and then restart your computer.
2. When the "Press any key to boot from CD" message appears on the screen, press any key to start the computer from the Windows XP CD.
3. At the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER to begin Windows XP Setup.
4. Read the Microsoft Software License Terms, and then press F8.
5. Select the partition in which you want to install Windows XP, and then press ENTER.
6. Select the Leave the current file system intact (no changes) option, and then press ENTER to continue.
7. Press ESC to install to a different folder.
If the Setup program detects another operating system folder, it prompts you to type the name for the new folder after the backslash (\), for example, \WINXP. If there are no other operating systems detected, the Setup program automatically names the folder \Windows.
8. Press ENTER to continue.
9. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Windows XP Setup.
For more information about how to change the folder name on new installations, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
315242 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315242/) How to designate the original folder name for a reinstallation of Windows XP
Back to the top
Method 4: Perform a clean install of Windows XP
A clean installation refers to removing all data from your hard disk by repartitioning and reformatting your hard disk and reinstalling the operating system and programs to an empty (clean) hard disk. You should back up all important information before you perform a clean installation of Windows XP.
For more information about important things to consider before you partition and format you hard disk and how to partition and format your hard disk by using the Windows XP Setup program, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
313348 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/313348/) How to partition and format a hard disk in Windows XP
After you have backed up all important information, follow these steps to install Windows XP:1. Start your computer from the Windows XP CD. To do this, insert the Windows XP CD into your CD drive or DVD drive, and then restart your computer.
2. When you see the "Press any key to boot from CD" message, press any key to start the computer from the Windows XP CD.
3. At the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER to start Windows XP Setup.
4. Read the Microsoft Software License Terms, and then press F8.
5. Follow the instructions on the screen to select and format a partition where you want to install Windows XP.
6. Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Windows XP Setup.
Back to the top
Method 5: Perform a multiple boot operation
For more information about how to multiple boot Windows XP and other versions of Windows and MS-DOS, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
217210 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/217210/) How to multiple boot Windows XP, Windows 2000, Windows NT, Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows Me, and MS-DOS
Back to the top
TROUBLESHOOTING
For more information about how to troubleshoot installation problems, click the following article numbers to view the articles in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
310637 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310637/) You receive an error message after you enter the product key when you try to install Windows XP
310064 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310064/) How to troubleshoot problems during installation when you upgrade from Windows 98 or Windows Millennium Edition to Windows XP
If you still have problems with installation, you might want to ask someone for help or contact support. For information about how to contact support, visit the following Microsoft Web site:
http://support.microsoft.com/contactus/ (http://support.microsoft.com/contactus/)
Back to the top
MORE INFORMATION
For more information, click the following article numbers to view the articles in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
307726 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307726/) Description of the Windows XP Upgrade Advisor
314062 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314062/) The latest Windows XP Hardware Compatibility List
295322 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/295322/) How to determine if hardware or software is compatible with Windows XP
For more information, visit the following Microsoft Web site:
http://support.microsoft.com/ph/1173 (http://support.microsoft.com/ph/1173)
If these Microsoft Knowledge Base articles do not help you resolve the problem, or if you experience symptoms that differ from those that this article describes, please search the Microsoft Knowledge Base for more information. To search the Microsoft Knowledge Base, visit the following Microsoft Web site:
http://support.microsoft.com (http://support.microsoft.com/)
Removing Ahsan's Virus
Hello guys,
follow these steps to remove Ahsan's virus from your system.
1. start windows in safe mode in with command prompt.
2. use Free download RRT Tool to enable run " if disabled". "Search in google"
3. Enable regediting if disabled with following reg key.
Code: Select all
REG add HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v DisableRegistryTools /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f
4. Open regedit, search and delete all entries with name "Ahsan" , site 110mb.com and Bush.
5. If your folder option is disabled enable it with following reg key "
Code: Select all
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Current Version\Policies\Explorer
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Current Version\Policies\Explorer
Check if a DWORD value named NoFolderOptions exists in the pane on the right hand side of the screen
Delete it
6. If you are still unable to view the hidden files, which is disabled by virus, enable it with following proc and key.
Code: Select all
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced. Find the value "Hidden" . Rightclick it and modify it to 1. If Key value hidden is not present create it
7. Check the following registery values and set the values given below in each registery key.
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced\Folder\Hidden\NOHIDDEN]
"CheckedValue"=dword:02
"ValueName"="Hidden"
"DefaultValue"=dword: 02
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced\Folder\Hidden\SHOWALL]
"CheckedValue"=dword: 01
"ValueName"="Hidden"
"DefaultValue"=dword:02
8. Now enable "show all hidden files / Hidden system files and folders", and search for following files and delete them all.
Code: Select all
system.exe
csrss.exe
Home video.avi.exe
autorun
Note: these files will be in parrent drives (D:, C:) and in windows folder.
9. Dont worrie, you are done. now restart and Enjoy !
About RRT Tool
You may not believe this but there still are lots of computer users that have no anti-virus program installed because they erroneously think that they will be spared from infection. Some don’t even know what a computervirus is!
Well they are clearly wrong and the result is that I needed to clean, repair or dismantle lots of computers to get rid of all the malware that had infected their systems.
When someone asks for my assistance, the first thing I always do is an offline anti-virus scan and clean.
But when I boot the computer, I am often faced with the same problem; the virus has made some changes to the system restrictions in order to hide itself from easy detection. These restrictions are most often:
1 - Disable Folder Options >> so the user can't set the option to show hidden files!
2 - Disable Registry Tools >> so the user can't see what is going on during system startup!
3 - Disable Ctrl+Alt+Del >> so the user can't see the virus and the other applications running!
4 - Disable Show hidden files & folders >> so the user can't see the malware bodies which always come with hidden attribute set to true!
5 - Disable Run Command >> so the user can't use it to run some tools to track the virus activites of remove it.
6 - Disable Windows Firewall (SharedAccess) >> so the virus can send & receive any data through the network without the attention of the user!
7 - Disable Windows Firewall (Wscsvc) >> so the virus can send & receive any data through the network without the attention of the user!
8 - Disable Windows Firewall (Wuauserv) >> so the virus can send & receive any data through the network without the attention of the user!
9 – Restrict Internet Explorer Home Page Changing >> so the user can't change the malicious web page set by the malware!
10 – Restrict Internet Explorer Closing >> so the user can't close the pops up windows that appear when visiting the malicious web page or any other website!
11 – Hide Internet Options >> so the user can't change any setting set by the malware!
12 – Hide Internet Explorer Address Bar >> so the user can't see what web page being visited and what scripts being executed!
13 - Restrict Internet Explorer Right Click >> so the user can't view the source of the page being visited and other useful things.
14 – Hide Internet Explorer Navigation Buttons >> so the user will be forced to user the keyboard shortcuts to navigate through the web sites!
15 - Hide Internet Explorer Context Menu >> so the user can't access this menu which make him able to select some useful settings.
16 - Hide Internet Explorer Toolbar >> so the user can't use it to remove some unwanted toolbars made by the malware.
17 - Disable Command Prompt (cmd.exe) >> so the user cannot run any console programs like command prompt removal tools...
18 - Disable Control Panel >> so the user cannot use the control panel applets.
19 - Hide system files/folders >> so the user can't see the malware bodies which usually come with system attribute set to true!
20 - Change Show Hidden files option button >> So even if you select "Show hidden files and folders from folder options these files & folder will not be shown!
21 - Disable Show System files check box >> So even if you unchecked "Hide protected operating system files" these files & folder will not be shown!
22 - Disable Show all files/folders check >> So changing this from folder options will be ignored!
23 - Hide Desktop items to prevent the user from accessing My Computer and other desktop shortcuts!
24 – Hide files extensions: This is commonly used by malware to trick the user. By hiding file extension, a user doesn't know whether a file with folder icon is an exe file or just an ordinary folder.
25 – Disable File Extentions Check >> So changing this from folder options will be ignored!
26 – Restrict Windows Update >> So the user cannot download security patches from Microsoft.
27 – Disable Shut Down Command >> So the user cannot shut down the system normally.
28 – Restrict Settings Folders >> Just imagine when you all items under Start menu>Settings wont run!
29 – Disable Taskbar context menu >> You right click your taskbar.. Oops; nothing happens!
30 – Disable Logoff Command >> So the user cannot logoff and use another profile.
31 – Hide Start Menu Logoff >> So the user cannot use this shortcut to logoff!
32 – Restrict Add/Remove Programs >> So the user cannot see what applications and windows components are installed or uninstall/reinstall any application.
33 – File Extention Default >> So the user cannot select "Hide extensions for known file types".
34 – No Windows Update >> So the user cannot download security updates and other fixes for windows.
35 – R-Media Malware >> This item is indicating that a malicious object is trying to invade your computer through removable media, please see the details below.
36 – Hidden Drives >> So the user cannot see any of the storage drives but they still can use RUN to access and explore them.
37 – Restricted Drives >> So the user can see the drives but cannot access them even when using RUN command.
38 – No Search >> So the user cannot search the file system using the start menu item for any file.
Unfortunately, AV Software doesn’t really care about these restrictions and do nothing to re-enable them!
Until AV software comes up with such a tool in their future versions, we have created a very small tool for you that does just that! It re-enables all what the virus had previously disabled, and gives you back the control over your own computer. We called it Remove Restrictions Tool (RRT).
The new great feature:
RRT now is implemented with a totally new and great feature, we call it:
Removable Media Malware Defender.
Since we noticed that most of the malware nowadays spread via removable media (Flash disks in specific), we implemented RRT with the ability of monitoring, blocking and removing any type of malware that uses flash disks to spread.
RRT with AutoRemove enabled will monitor your system and detects any flash disk as soon as it gets plugged into the USB port. The generic technique will work in less than few milliseconds , if it detects any infection in the flash disk, it will block it and remove the infection before it makes any harm to your computer.
The great news is that RRT -unlick the traditional AVs- doesn't need to be updated with malware signatures in order for it to do it's job, instead, it uses a generic and smart technique that detects any type of malware that attempt to infect your system via flash disk inserted into the USB ports.
Important notes:
1 - Since this tool is a security software that deals with the file system, the system registry and the running processes, it MUST be given all the rights it demands in order for it to do it's job. Some other security softwares will try to block the tool and prevent it from doing its job, please make sure that it's not blocked by your filewall and there's no other program blocking it.
Before running this tool, we recommend you to disable any other security solution you are runing such as Antivirus, Firewall, monitoring tools ..etc.
2 - Though RRT is able to remove the restrictions caused by malware even if the malware is already active, your computer must be CLEAN before using RRT. RRT is not programmed to heal your computer from any type of malware that is already infected your computer. RRT is just a tool to remove the malware leftovers and is a DEFENDER against the future malware that may infect your computer through removable media in the future!
3. RRT will NOT protect you from any malware type that may infect your computer through CD/DVD drives, emails, or the internet. It's only programmed to protect you from the Flash disks malware. By using RRT with AutoRemove enabled, you will be sure 100% of that your computer will not get infected through flash disks!
How to buy RRT
The limited version of this tool is for FREE for personal use only. This limited version does not have the AutoRemove feature and has no Removable Media Malware Defender. If you would like to use the application in a business environment or you want to enjoy those two great features you are required to license the application. Licensing is quick, and the pricing is flexible.
Buy from Plimus (Recommended)
This is the recommended authorized reseller of our products, they accept almost any type of payments methods, CC, PayPal, Wire transfer, pay by fax ...etc, they have an excellent customer support 24/7 an live assistance, you can buy in a secured place and enjoy the discounts and the special promotions, and the most great thing is that you don't have to wait to get your product activated as the activation process is fully automated. To buy RRT from Plimus click hereBuy from Avangate
If you do not have a Credit Card or you want to pay by PayPal or you want enjoy the discount options for bulk orders, you may buy RRT from Avangate hereBuy from CNET
If you have your Credit Card ready and you need to buy only one unit, please you may buy RRT from CNET by clicking here
follow these steps to remove Ahsan's virus from your system.
1. start windows in safe mode in with command prompt.
2. use Free download RRT Tool to enable run " if disabled". "Search in google"
3. Enable regediting if disabled with following reg key.
Code: Select all
REG add HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v DisableRegistryTools /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f
4. Open regedit, search and delete all entries with name "Ahsan" , site 110mb.com and Bush.
5. If your folder option is disabled enable it with following reg key "
Code: Select all
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Current Version\Policies\Explorer
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Current Version\Policies\Explorer
Check if a DWORD value named NoFolderOptions exists in the pane on the right hand side of the screen
Delete it
6. If you are still unable to view the hidden files, which is disabled by virus, enable it with following proc and key.
Code: Select all
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced. Find the value "Hidden" . Rightclick it and modify it to 1. If Key value hidden is not present create it
7. Check the following registery values and set the values given below in each registery key.
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced\Folder\Hidden\NOHIDDEN]
"CheckedValue"=dword:02
"ValueName"="Hidden"
"DefaultValue"=dword: 02
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced\Folder\Hidden\SHOWALL]
"CheckedValue"=dword: 01
"ValueName"="Hidden"
"DefaultValue"=dword:02
8. Now enable "show all hidden files / Hidden system files and folders", and search for following files and delete them all.
Code: Select all
system.exe
csrss.exe
Home video.avi.exe
autorun
Note: these files will be in parrent drives (D:, C:) and in windows folder.
9. Dont worrie, you are done. now restart and Enjoy !
About RRT Tool
You may not believe this but there still are lots of computer users that have no anti-virus program installed because they erroneously think that they will be spared from infection. Some don’t even know what a computervirus is!
Well they are clearly wrong and the result is that I needed to clean, repair or dismantle lots of computers to get rid of all the malware that had infected their systems.
When someone asks for my assistance, the first thing I always do is an offline anti-virus scan and clean.
But when I boot the computer, I am often faced with the same problem; the virus has made some changes to the system restrictions in order to hide itself from easy detection. These restrictions are most often:
1 - Disable Folder Options >> so the user can't set the option to show hidden files!
2 - Disable Registry Tools >> so the user can't see what is going on during system startup!
3 - Disable Ctrl+Alt+Del >> so the user can't see the virus and the other applications running!
4 - Disable Show hidden files & folders >> so the user can't see the malware bodies which always come with hidden attribute set to true!
5 - Disable Run Command >> so the user can't use it to run some tools to track the virus activites of remove it.
6 - Disable Windows Firewall (SharedAccess) >> so the virus can send & receive any data through the network without the attention of the user!
7 - Disable Windows Firewall (Wscsvc) >> so the virus can send & receive any data through the network without the attention of the user!
8 - Disable Windows Firewall (Wuauserv) >> so the virus can send & receive any data through the network without the attention of the user!
9 – Restrict Internet Explorer Home Page Changing >> so the user can't change the malicious web page set by the malware!
10 – Restrict Internet Explorer Closing >> so the user can't close the pops up windows that appear when visiting the malicious web page or any other website!
11 – Hide Internet Options >> so the user can't change any setting set by the malware!
12 – Hide Internet Explorer Address Bar >> so the user can't see what web page being visited and what scripts being executed!
13 - Restrict Internet Explorer Right Click >> so the user can't view the source of the page being visited and other useful things.
14 – Hide Internet Explorer Navigation Buttons >> so the user will be forced to user the keyboard shortcuts to navigate through the web sites!
15 - Hide Internet Explorer Context Menu >> so the user can't access this menu which make him able to select some useful settings.
16 - Hide Internet Explorer Toolbar >> so the user can't use it to remove some unwanted toolbars made by the malware.
17 - Disable Command Prompt (cmd.exe) >> so the user cannot run any console programs like command prompt removal tools...
18 - Disable Control Panel >> so the user cannot use the control panel applets.
19 - Hide system files/folders >> so the user can't see the malware bodies which usually come with system attribute set to true!
20 - Change Show Hidden files option button >> So even if you select "Show hidden files and folders from folder options these files & folder will not be shown!
21 - Disable Show System files check box >> So even if you unchecked "Hide protected operating system files" these files & folder will not be shown!
22 - Disable Show all files/folders check >> So changing this from folder options will be ignored!
23 - Hide Desktop items to prevent the user from accessing My Computer and other desktop shortcuts!
24 – Hide files extensions: This is commonly used by malware to trick the user. By hiding file extension, a user doesn't know whether a file with folder icon is an exe file or just an ordinary folder.
25 – Disable File Extentions Check >> So changing this from folder options will be ignored!
26 – Restrict Windows Update >> So the user cannot download security patches from Microsoft.
27 – Disable Shut Down Command >> So the user cannot shut down the system normally.
28 – Restrict Settings Folders >> Just imagine when you all items under Start menu>Settings wont run!
29 – Disable Taskbar context menu >> You right click your taskbar.. Oops; nothing happens!
30 – Disable Logoff Command >> So the user cannot logoff and use another profile.
31 – Hide Start Menu Logoff >> So the user cannot use this shortcut to logoff!
32 – Restrict Add/Remove Programs >> So the user cannot see what applications and windows components are installed or uninstall/reinstall any application.
33 – File Extention Default >> So the user cannot select "Hide extensions for known file types".
34 – No Windows Update >> So the user cannot download security updates and other fixes for windows.
35 – R-Media Malware >> This item is indicating that a malicious object is trying to invade your computer through removable media, please see the details below.
36 – Hidden Drives >> So the user cannot see any of the storage drives but they still can use RUN to access and explore them.
37 – Restricted Drives >> So the user can see the drives but cannot access them even when using RUN command.
38 – No Search >> So the user cannot search the file system using the start menu item for any file.
Unfortunately, AV Software doesn’t really care about these restrictions and do nothing to re-enable them!
Until AV software comes up with such a tool in their future versions, we have created a very small tool for you that does just that! It re-enables all what the virus had previously disabled, and gives you back the control over your own computer. We called it Remove Restrictions Tool (RRT).
The new great feature:
RRT now is implemented with a totally new and great feature, we call it:
Removable Media Malware Defender.
Since we noticed that most of the malware nowadays spread via removable media (Flash disks in specific), we implemented RRT with the ability of monitoring, blocking and removing any type of malware that uses flash disks to spread.
RRT with AutoRemove enabled will monitor your system and detects any flash disk as soon as it gets plugged into the USB port. The generic technique will work in less than few milliseconds , if it detects any infection in the flash disk, it will block it and remove the infection before it makes any harm to your computer.
The great news is that RRT -unlick the traditional AVs- doesn't need to be updated with malware signatures in order for it to do it's job, instead, it uses a generic and smart technique that detects any type of malware that attempt to infect your system via flash disk inserted into the USB ports.
Important notes:
1 - Since this tool is a security software that deals with the file system, the system registry and the running processes, it MUST be given all the rights it demands in order for it to do it's job. Some other security softwares will try to block the tool and prevent it from doing its job, please make sure that it's not blocked by your filewall and there's no other program blocking it.
Before running this tool, we recommend you to disable any other security solution you are runing such as Antivirus, Firewall, monitoring tools ..etc.
2 - Though RRT is able to remove the restrictions caused by malware even if the malware is already active, your computer must be CLEAN before using RRT. RRT is not programmed to heal your computer from any type of malware that is already infected your computer. RRT is just a tool to remove the malware leftovers and is a DEFENDER against the future malware that may infect your computer through removable media in the future!
3. RRT will NOT protect you from any malware type that may infect your computer through CD/DVD drives, emails, or the internet. It's only programmed to protect you from the Flash disks malware. By using RRT with AutoRemove enabled, you will be sure 100% of that your computer will not get infected through flash disks!
How to buy RRT
The limited version of this tool is for FREE for personal use only. This limited version does not have the AutoRemove feature and has no Removable Media Malware Defender. If you would like to use the application in a business environment or you want to enjoy those two great features you are required to license the application. Licensing is quick, and the pricing is flexible.
Buy from Plimus (Recommended)
This is the recommended authorized reseller of our products, they accept almost any type of payments methods, CC, PayPal, Wire transfer, pay by fax ...etc, they have an excellent customer support 24/7 an live assistance, you can buy in a secured place and enjoy the discounts and the special promotions, and the most great thing is that you don't have to wait to get your product activated as the activation process is fully automated. To buy RRT from Plimus click hereBuy from Avangate
If you do not have a Credit Card or you want to pay by PayPal or you want enjoy the discount options for bulk orders, you may buy RRT from Avangate hereBuy from CNET
If you have your Credit Card ready and you need to buy only one unit, please you may buy RRT from CNET by clicking here
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